วันอาทิตย์ที่ 1 กรกฎาคม พ.ศ. 2555

Hue Hotels


Hue

Hue (Huế) is in the central region of Vietnam and is the former imperial capital.


Guardian statues at the Tomb of Khai Dinh

Understand

Hue is intimately connected to the imperial Nguyễn Dynasty, based in Hue, who ruled from 1802 to 1945, when the Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in favor of Ho Chi Minh's revolutionary government. The city went through tough times during the Vietnam War, when it was conquered by the Viet Cong and held for 24 days, during which the VC slaughtered around 1,000 people suspected of sympathizing with the South, and then subject to an American bombing campaign to retake the city.


Perfume River

Orientation

Hue is easy to get a grip on. The main landmark is the Perfume River (Hương Giang), with the old city and the Citadel on the north side and the newer city, including most hotels and restaurants, on the south side. Much of the riverside has wisely been done up as a pleasant promenade and park dotted with bizarre sculptures. The tombs are located further south in the outskirts of Hue.

Climate

Hue's weather is infamously bad: the Truong Son Mountains just to the south seem to bottle up all the moisture, so it's usually misty, drizzly or outright rainy. Things get even wetter than usual in the winter rainy season, especially from February to the end of March. To be safe, bring along an umbrella any time of year. Don't forget to bring a sweater and jacket in winter as it can get rather chilly, with temperatures falling to as low as 8 degrees at night. Alternatively, when the sun makes an appearance for a day or a week, it can reach 30 degrees.
It's usually quite dry during the summer months, when the temperature can reach the high 30's. Summer rains can be heavy but brief, and often arrive unexpectedly, whereas February rains can last for weeks. The best description for the weather in Hue would be "changeable".

Get in

By plane

Hue's international "Phu Bai" airport fields daily flights to and from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, but flights are quite often disrupted by poor weather during the rainy season (Mid October - Mid December). The majority of flights are Vietnam Airlines but Jetstar Vietnam also runs a flight or two from Ho Chi Minh City and once a day to Hanoi. The airport is 15 kilometers away from the city center and should cost no more than 180,000VND by taxi (30 minute ride). There is also a bus that will take you into the city & even drop you at your hotel for 45,000VND. The airport facility is currently undergoing renovations and will be closed until 13 June, 2011. Arrange airport transfer service at [YourLocalBooking.com]
Danang's airport, only two hours away by car now that the Hai Van Tunnel is open, is busier, and has more connections. As of February 2012, a one-way taxi from Da Nang airport to Hue can be negotiated down to USD 45 (large car) or USD 40 (small car); using the meter, cost for a large car is about 1,200,000 dong.

By train

Several trains a day to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Danang (4 hours) etc. The journey down south through Lang Co and the Hai Van Pass is particularly scenic, and from Danang you can take a taxi or motorbike to Hoi An.
A second-class sleeper ticket from Ho Chi Minh City on the much superior 'express' SE2-SE6 train to Hue costs between 588,000 & 740,000 dong depending on the level you're on (1,2 or 3). SE 2 departs at 7.00 PM. Be warned the beds are quite hard, as there is not much of a matress (about half an inch thick), and it is placed over a plastic bench/seat. You can get other train types, but the little extra you pay is worth it several times over. It offers a wonderful travel experience. The traveler gets to sit, lie and sleep in a very small cabin for 23 hours with five other people (nearly always Vietnamese), eat four plain but tasty and filling Vietnamese meals, listen to a fine selection of Vietnamese pop songs on the PA, and see some incomparably beautiful countryside, particularly in the last section between Da Nang and Hue. It's an excellent way to see the country and meet ordinary Vietnamese, who are unfailingly friendly and helpful, even to travelers who have not bothered to learn a word of their language. The trip is especially recommended if you like babies.
Buy your tickets at the train station, it can be worth your effort. Hotels often over charge by doubling the prices (at least US$80 for softsleeper), often using excuses like it's high season or that they have to buy it at the black market. On the other hand it saves you dealing with the surly station staff.
Train station is about 40min walk from most backpacker hotels (in Pham Ngu Lao) but it is straight.

By bus

Public buses from all the bigger cities (including frequent services to Hanoi and Saigon) connect to the main bus station (Bến Xe Phía Nam and Bến Xe Phía Bắc). Most open tour buses include Hue in their itinerary, connecting to Hoi An or Da Nang to the south (4-6 hours) and Hanoi to the north (13-16 hours). The overnight Hanoi route is popular with locals, but beware of motion sickness among them.
  • Sinh Café, 7 Nguyen Tri Phuong St,. Direct buses from Hoi An cost US$4 and leave twice daily: the 08:00-12:00 service stops at the Marble Mountains and makes the trip in 4 hours, while the 13:30-16:30 service manages the trip in three. Buses to Hanoi depart at 17:30 every day (US$9) with stops in Dong Ha and one or two other places.

From Vientiane You can book a sleeping or sitting bus for 180,000Kip (sleeping is the same price as sitting) to Hue or continue to Da Nang from the Southern Bus Terminal. The trip takes 15 hours to Hue so the sleeping bus is the better choice. Departure time for just Hue/Da Nang is 7pm although at Vientiene's southern bus station you'll also see other options heading south and you could probably take those as well.
You'll have a couple bathroom stops (bathrooms not necessarily available) and at least 2 or 3 eating stops.
They'll try to arrive at the Lao Bao border crossing before it opens at 7am. Here is where they'll collect everyones passports to get stamped out of Laos. Everyone needs to include a 15,000Kip fee (foreigners may end up getting asked for 30,000Kip) so have that ready in your passport ahead of time. You'll also have several ladies asking if you need to change any money. They'll come in the bus or roam around the bus stop. Be careful and shrewd with them. If you just hand them some kip without establishing what rate your getting or not even bother to count how much you gave you'll end up with a lousy 50% or 1:1 rate so you've lost half your cash! (Probably best not to exchange anything as you'll have no chance to actually buy anything with your Dong until you reach your destination. However, you might no be able to exchange your Kip when you're in Hue. So plan ahead!)
Meanwhile, as this is going on you'll be served some Vietnam coffee. All meals and the coffee break should be included in your ticket price and then you have to pay for anything additional that you order.
Once you reach Hue you can get dropped off before the actual Hue bus station and maybe save yourself having to ride into town on a hired motor bike. (Oct. 2010)
From Pakse VIP (not really) buses leave at 8am arriving in Hue 12-13 hours later. Local buses leave Pakse in the evening. Tickets can be bought from travel agents in central Pakse. Be prepared for a no air-con ride.

Get around

By taxi

Like other Vietnamese cities, Hue is flooded with cyclos and motorbikes, as well as a few meter taxis. Taxi drivers are usually honest, but make sure they turn the meter on: trips start at 15,000 dong for the first 2km and tick upward at 11,500 dong/km. Some meters run incorrectly (showing up to 10 times the distance actually travelled), so ensure you have a rough idea of the distance to you destination. If the meter is running too quickly, at the destination pay an estimate of the fair price and insist on calling the police if the driver will not accept the estimated non-meter price. The driver will back down. A metered trip out see two tombs, with waiting time, should come to around 300,000 dong (US$18).
With cyclos and motorbikes, all of the usual disclaimers apply: negotiate a price ahead of time, and don't be afraid to walk away if they're asking too much. No trip in Hue should cost more than 20,000 dong. Many of the motorbike drivers double as pot dealers, and you may be offered to buy marijuana along with your ride.

By bike

Hire a motorbike and join the locals as they swarm across the bridges and along the main roads at a leisurely pace. They're available for around US$5/day from hotels and shops.
Cycling is also a good option, with plenty of bikes available from 25,000-30,000dong/day (March 2012).
For motorbike with driver, small hotels have connections to freelancers. You may be lucky to have an English speaking (a bit mumbled but knowledgeable) guide/driver/US army veteran for all 6 tombs (the 7th is inaccessible) including those locked and forgotten for lack of tourist interests plus three temples and the emperor's arena for one day and have extra time in the early afternoon for a beer and some Vietnamese do-it-yourself spring rolls and the famous Hue pancakes for just $10. The DIY spring rolls and pancakes are not free though but they are the best for only 45,000 dong.

By cyclo

A cyclo is the local versions of the trishaw, with the passenger in front of the cyclist. Be prepared to haggle for reasonable prices as cyclo drivers tend to quote indiscriminately. It's a good idea to agree absolutely on your price before you go. Also make sure this is a return price, and not one-way. Of course, if you want to change your itinerary after you're already on the way, you should discuss how this might affect the agreed price with your cyclo driver right away. Otherwise, you may get a rude surprise when you arrive at your final destination, and the driver tries to charge you an exorbitant amount. Be aware that while most of the cyclo drivers in Hue are fair, and can be quite helpful, there are a few who are very unscrupulous. If you agree on the price as "100", make it very clear that you are agreeing on 100,000 Dong, and not 100 US dollars! Many cyclo drivers also act as pimps, and may offer you local women (starting at $10/hr).

On foot

Hue is quite compact, so you can reach most of the hotels, restaurants, and the Citadel easily on foot. Mr. Cu at Mandarin Cafe has prepared a free walking tour brochure & map. Make sure to stop by 24 Tran Cao Van St to pick up your free map (and enjoy some delicious banana pancakes). You'll need to arrange transportation to reach the emperors' tombs, though.

See

Imperial Citadel (Đại Nội)


Courtyard of Ngo Mon, with the Thai Hoa Palace in the background
The former imperial seat of government and Hue's prime attraction, this is a great sprawling complex of temples, pavilions, moats, walls, gates, shops, museums and galleries, featuring art and costumes from various periods of Vietnamese history. Thanks to its size, it is also delightfully peaceful - a rare commodity in Vietnam.
The citadel was badly knocked about during fighting between the French and the Viet Minh in 1947, and again in 1968 during the Tet Offensive, when it was shelled by the Viet Cong and then bombed by the Americans. As a result, some areas are now only empty fields, bits of walls, and an explanatory plaque. Other buildings are intact, though, and a few are in sparkling condition. For the rest, while restoration has been going on for 20 years, there is still quite a long way to go. Allow several hours to see it properly. Entry 80,000 dong (for foreigners, less for locals of course) and it is open 06:30-17:00. Inside you can pay $1.50 (30,000dong) to dress up in the King or Queen's clothing and sit on the throne for a fun photo opportunity.
  • Ngọ Môn. The main southern entrance to the city, built in 1833 by Minh Mang. The central door, and the bridge connecting to it, were reserved exclusively for the emperor. Climb up to the second floor for a nice view of the exquisite courtyard. The Ngo Mon Gate is the principal entrance to the Imperial Enclosure. The Emperor would address his officials and the people from the top of this gate.
  • Thái Hòa Palace. The emperor's coronation hall, where he would sit in state and receive foreign dignitaries.
  • Trường Sanh Residence. Translated as the "Palace of Longevity", the Truong Sanh Palace was the residence of King Tu Duc’s mother, Empress Tu Du, under the Nguyen Dynasty in the 19th century. It lies in Tu Cam Thanh, one of the two major parts of the Hue Citadel. Currently under renovation, the project, estimated to cost almost VND 30 billion (roughly US $1.8 million), includes the restoration of Lach Dao Nguyen, the Palace's protective moat, decorative man-made rock formations and mountains, bonsai gardens, and the palace gate. The restoration is expected to be completed in 2009, but this is doubtful. While not officially open to the public, it is possible to enter the grounds and should be seen, as even in it's overgrown state, it's beauty is recognizable.
  • Forbidden Purple City. Directly behind Thai Hoa Palace, but it was almost entirely destroyed during the 1968 Tet Offensive and only the rather nondescript Mandarin Palaces on both sides remain.
  • Hue Jungle Crevice. When the Viet Cong briefly over ran Hue they rounded up 3000 of Hue's citizens and officials. Fearing the prisoners would slow them down in hot retreat, they tied them up and pushed the people over the cliff into the crevice.

Tombs of the Emperors


The tomb of Khai Dinh on a misty morning

Lake and pavilion at the tomb of Tu Duc
The other great attractions in Hue are the Tombs of the Emperors, which are located along the Perfume River south of the city. They are accessible by taxi or bike from the city, but the best way to see them is to hire a river boat and go for a cruise. Plan to make a full day of it.
Group tours usually cost about US$2, which includes an excellent (really!) lunch aboard the boat, but does not include admission to the tombs (80,000 dong apiece for foreigners - ensure you count your change carefully if paying by large denomination note as short-changing can occur) or the cost of a motorbike from the wharf to each tomb. If you're with a group, the price should be set by the tour company at roughly 25,000 dong for each round-trip. Choose a tour with as few stops as possible. Some companies lard up their itineraries with visits to silk farms and a few pagodas, promising to fit everything in neatly, however tour companies aren't noted for their time management, and you'll wind up rushed along and frustrated for at least one of the tombs.
If you're travelling on your own, boat hire or a motorbike and driver should cost somewhere around US$20, again not including tomb admissions. All of the tombs can be walked to from the wharfs in anywhere from ten minutes to half an hour. The paths are mostly obvious, but you still probably shouldn't try it without a map or a terrific sense of direction. Most of the tombs are open from 7:30AM or 8AM to 5:30PM, depending on the season; note that the tour groups arrive around 10AM and leave around 3PM in order to get back before dinner, so plan accordingly to avoid the crowds. You'll be glad you did.
The tombs are also easily reached by bicycle, although there is a shortage of good maps of how to reach them. Ask your hotel about bicycle rentals and maps, and be cautious on the crowded and potentially potholed roads. This is probably the most inexpensive (and enjoyable, if you enjoy cycling) way to reach the tombs. Along the way you will meet many darling Vietnamese children who like to practice their English by shouting "F--- you!" and other English expletives at passing foreigners.
The tombs themselves are worth the cost and effort. They mostly date from the late 19th or early 20th centuries, when the Emperors had been reduced to figureheads under French colonial rule and had little else to do than build themselves elaborate tombs. The finest of them are the Tomb of Tu Duc, the Tomb of Minh Mang and the Tomb of Khai Dinh, all of which are excellent examples of Vietnamese Buddhist aesthetics and architecture. The older ones have been allowed to crumble into picturesque semi-ruin, although some are now being restored.
In order of age:
  • Tomb of Gia Long (20km) - the most remote of the tombs, quiet and fallen into disrepair as Gia Long, the first Nguyen emperor, was notoriously despotic.
  • Tomb of Minh Mang (12km) - in this opulent complex, the main buildings are arranged on an east-west axis, including a courtyard surrounded by warrior statues and several temples and pavilions. Several bridges cross two lakes before the axis ends before the vast burial mound (which is circled by a fence). The mausoleum features large gardens and lakes: a pleasant place to sit and relax. If you're dropped off by boat note that there is a stretch of souvenir sellers to navigate during the short walk to the mausoleum entrance.
  • Tomb of Thieu Tri (8km) - built in 1848. This Emperor and his wife were the most revered and loved throughout the country. Although he only ruled for 7 years, he was the most sorely missed. In a time of strife and economic problems, he was careful with the country's Treasury and made sure to improve his people's living standards. His last will was that he be placed in a tomb that was not extragavant, parting ways with the tradition of creating lavish final resting places for their Emperors.
  • Tomb of Tu Duc (7km) - Constructed from 1864 to 1867, the complex served as a second Imperial City where the Emperor went for "working vacations". Tu Duc's contemplative nature and poetic spirit is reflected in the landscape and arrangement of the 50 buildings that at one time stood here. A vast, sprawling complex set around a lake, with wooden pavilions and tombs and temples dedicated to wives and favored courtesans (Tu Duc had 104 to choose from). The courtesans' quarters are in ruins, with only outlines and crumbling walls left amid waves of overgrown grass and silence, but other areas are stunningly well-preserved. The Emperor's tomb itself, tucked away in the back, is surprisingly modest - the final courtyard is nearly empty with just a stone coffin in the middle. (The tombs of Empress Le Thien Anh and Emperor Kien Phuc, who briefly ruled in 1884, are also located here.) Try to dodge the crowds for this one.
  • Tomb of Dong Khanh - built in 1917.
  • Tomb of Khai Dinh (10km) - dating from 1925, this is the best preserved of the lot and, while comparatively compact, quite grand at first sight. While it follows the classic formula of forecourts leading up to the tomb of the Emperor, complete with statues in attendance, architecture buffs will spot some European influences. The tomb itself is completely over the top with incredibly detailed and opulent mosaics of cavorting dragons. Try to get to this one early, as it is a favorite stop for Asian tour-bus groups. Also, you may want to leave the tourist path and head up the hill on the right side of the tomb, where a small temple stands. You will have a great view of the tomb and the valley it faces.

Other sites

  • Thien Mu Pagoda (4km) - perched on a bluff over the river and housing some very fine gold and silver Buddha images. The Thien Mu Pagoda overlooks the Perfume River and is the official symbol of the city of Hue. Thien Mu means "elderly celestial woman", and refers to an old legend about the founding of the pagoda. Brimming with opportunities for great photos.
  • Phu Bai Airport is a must-see if you are interested in the war. The airport was a dirt strip during the Indochina War. Then, during the Vietnam War, an American garrison was assigned there and built up the airport with concrete bunkers, a paved airstrip, and a few other luxuries. The airport was vital in keeping Hue supplied during the Eastertide Offensive of 1972 when "Charlie jumped the line". The airport retains the original buildings built by the Americans; however, they have been retrofitted for use by the Vietnamese.

Do

  • Hue day tour - including Citadel, 3 tombs and a garden house is available at many hotels. Entrance cost is not included and money will be asked in the bus (55,000 VND for citadel and tombs, 10,000 VND for garden house). Buffet lunch included. You can chose to only visit some of the places if you want. "Best" tomb is probably last one / Tu Duc.
  • Hai Van Pass Motorbike Tour- Many tour companies and hostels offer "Top Gear" motorbike tours over the Hai Van pass, through Da Nang and over to Hoi An. For someone who knows how to properly operate a motorbike or scooter this can be a very rewarding experience. Keep in mind that you will usually go through Da Nang at around rush hour in the afternoon, which can be very hectic and potentially dangerous if you are an inexperienced rider. Guided trips will run you $30-40, unguided will be much less than that.
  • Blind massage - at the institute for the blind, off Phan Boi Chau street (Kiet/Alley 180 Phan Boi Chau) on the right up the hill about 1km past the train tracks (look for a small blue sign with English). 40,000 dong/hour for massage and 30,000 dong/hour for steam-bath. All of the staff work and live in this facility, and speak a little English. This is where the locals go.
  • My An Hot Spring and Spa - 7km from Hue on the way to Thuan An beach. US$3 for foreigners to use the swimming pool and 2 hot spring pools. The water here has a high sulfur content, purported to have health benefits.
  • Thanh Tan Hot Springs - about 13 km from Hue Center. Similar to My An, but without the odor of sulphur. This site is surrounded by woods, which are pleasant to explore. Has graduated sections. Start with the cool section, and work your way up. The hottest section is actually closed off, as it is too hot to bathe in. There are also private pools for 2 or 4 people, and a swimming pool. There is a tiny restaurant on site. This is also where the local bottled Thanh Tan mineral water comes from.
  • Thuan An Beach - 15km from Hue.
  • Ho Chi Minh Museum 6 D Le Loi - Free admission. Contains photos and information on Ho Chi Minh as well as the history of Hue in photographs. Closed on Sunday.
  • Scams There are several "massage parlors" in town (catering strictly to the tourists) that are less than reputable, where the main attraction seems to be attractive girls flirting and chatting up the customer for a big tip. Don't bother asking your hotel for a recommendation, they will try to steer you to the one that provides them the biggest kickback. Also, if buying a bus-ticket, shop around and let them know you are looking for the best price. A bus ticket to Ho Chi Minh City runs around $20-$30, but you will hear quotes as high as $80. However, you can expect prices to be somewhat higher around certain holidays, such as Tet, when everyone is trying to get home. Be very clear on the price when you take a cyclo. (See cyclo section)

Buy

A traditional industry of Hue is embroidery, and framed embroidery can be purchased in the many stores of the backpacker area of Hue.
  • Healing the Wounded Heart Shop, 23 Vo Thi Sau Street, +84 54 3833694, . 8am-10pm. A Humanitarian project of the Spiral Foundation. This unique shop sells eco-friendly handicrafts made by disabled artisans in Hue. Many of the products are made from recycled items, including recycled soda can frames, and recycled telephone wire baskets. All net proceeds fund heart surgeries for poor children in the Hue area. 
  • Hope Center, 20 Nhat Le Street, +t +84 (0) 54 351 1511,. 8am-10pm. The Hope Center offers disabled and disadvantaged people a place to learn and work. Garment manufacturing is the mainstay. However, a range of handicraft items are also made. In particular the beautiful hand-woven cloth by A Luoi women is unique in its design and make up. Scarves, hand bags, purses and hand crafted jewellery are for sale. Well worth a visit. 

Eat

Hue is famed for its Imperial cuisine, originally prepared for the emperor and his retinue. Although the emphasis is more on presentation than taste, an imperial banquet is well worth trying.
The most famous local dish is bún bò Huế, a noodle soup served with slices of beef and lashings of chili oil. Another tasty local treat is sesame candy (mè xửng), which is peanutty, chewy and quite tasty if fresh, and goes for under 10,000 dong/box.
Nem Lui is a dish of sweet, minced pork around bamboo sticks grilled over hot coals. Banh Khoai is a "pancake" filled with bean sprouts, shrimp and pork. Bun Thit Nuong is delicious barbecued pork served with vegetables and noodles.

Budget

  • You and Me, 38 Tran Cao Van. This place appears to have dropped in standards or changed hands. Previously recommended, its 'speciality' pancakes are now inedible, meat dishes bereft of meat and staff are pushy (they even drop prices to encourage you to take the "fery fery good" (actually fery fery bad) spring rolls. Reasonably priced but still very bad value. Bottled beer is good! Leave it at that.
  • Bun Bo Hue, 11B Ly Thuong Kiet. (small and very local - far away from river on south bank). This eponymous eatery specializes in its namesake dish. 25000 dong gets you a bowl with a generous, mouth-meltingly soft (if fatty) cutlet plopped on top. Others: Bún Mụ Rơi (Nguyễn Chí Diễu st), Bún Cây Đa (Nguyễn Sinh Cung st), Bún Nguyễn Du (Nguyễn Du st)
  • Bun Cam, 38 Tran Cao Van st, Very popular with locals, but only opens for the early morning, about 6AM until they run out of soup. This is the real thing, local style, not adapted for the Western palate. Try it with their chili sauce, also a local specialty that shouldn't be missed. The lady sitting behind the soup cauldron is Cam, the cook and namesake of the business. She only speaks Vietnamese, but just look in the pot, like the locals do, and point at what you want. The price varies with how many different things you choose.
  • Bún Cha Hà Nôi, 20 Nguyen Tri Phuong. This family-run restaurant only serves original HaNoi-style Bun Cha: a dish with pork spring rolls, some meatballs, cabbage and carrot sauce with hot peppers, and bundles of noodles to dip in said sauce. Opened April 2011 and the owners are very welcoming to foreigners. As with all Vietnamese dishes, the hungry may have to order twice but with a price of 25.000 dong, that ain't too bad. Nice atmosphere while keeping the genuine atmosphere of a local restaurant.
  • Banh Khoai "Hong Mai", Dinh Tien Hoang - Nguyen Bieu corner Str. (Inside the Purple Forbidden City) is known as the best Banh Khoai(Pancake) in Hue. This is a family restaurant. Nem Lui (minced pork grilled with lemon grass on coal) and Banh Beo also recommended. Bánh Khoái Lạc Thiện (Trần Hưng Đạo st).
  • Banh Khoai - 'Hạnh', 11 Phó Đức Chinh (small street between Ben Nghe and Tran Quang Khai), 054-833552. This is a family restaurant where the locals go to eat Hue specialities, cheap and very good food!. Ban Khoai - 18,000 dong, Nem Lui 30,000 dong.  
  • Brown eyes restaurant 1/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong - Tel: 054 832572 . You need cheap food and big plates? Go to Brown Eyes and you will be satisfied for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Suitable for young people. Changed name, and now bad service.
  • La Carambole, 19 Pham Ngu Lao, 054-3810491. This place looks like a tourist trap... and it is. Reports suggest that it may once have been great but it now seems as if the chef inherited the menu but has no culinary experience. Serves French food, Vietnamese food and pizza. All of which are subpar. In April 2012 food here was actually pretty good, portions small but not bad prices for tourist area.  
  • Friendly restaurant, D Pham Ngu Lao, an excellent choice with charming staff and a wide range of Vietnamese and European food. Opened in 2005 and owned by a Vietnamese family, Friendly restaurant is in the town's centre.
  • Mandarin Café, 24 Tran Cao Van. Having been forced to move many times,the owner, Mr. Cu has purchased property and built on this new location to ensure that he won't haveto move again anytime soon. The owner is also a good photographer and many of his pictures hang on the wall. The food here is consistently good with local & Western favorites. Try his banana pancakes. They are as good today as they were 10 years ago.
  • Phuong Nam Cafe, 38 Tran Cao Van - Tel: 054 3849317 is a nice little restaurant with decent but very cheap food and excellent fruit shakes.
  • Banh Bao, in the corner of Ben Nghe and Nguyen Tri Phuong. is an street vendor that sells wonderful Banh Bao 5000 dong
  • Hot Tuna, 37 Vo Thi Sau (Corner of Vo Thi Sau & Chu Van An) - Tel: 84.54.3616464 is a nice restaurant, friendly staff and our meals were excellent. Recommend the chicken breast with mushroom sauce and mashed potatoes, 80,000 Dong and well worth every bit of it. The best I have had in Asia. Duck also quite nice. Meals range from 40,000 (sandwiches) to 160,000 (fish) and have lots of options in the mid range.

Mid-range

  • Hue Waterland Bar-Restaurant, 35 Chu Van An St. Tel : 054.3844844. Dining, lunch, breakfast. They serve Vietnam cuisine and Western food. Such as Bun Bo Hue, Banh Loc, Banh Beo, Banh Nam, Nem Lui, burgers, sandwiches, pizza, spaghetti, spring rolls, fish, shrimp, pork, noodle, rice. In tourist center, just few minutes to Perfume River. Garden view with bamboon tree and candle.
  • Japanese Restaurant, 34 Tran Cao Van, 054-834457. This Japanese restaurant serves excellent food for a relatively good price. 30,000-50,000 dong
  • Không Gian Xưa, Điện Biên Phủ st. A nice place to enjoy delicious local cuisine in a well designed traditional style building.
  • Ong Tao, 31 Chu Van An. 054.823031. Excellent traditional Hue food, try the meat rolls (wrapped in mint leaves) or the fried spring rolls -incredibly crunchy-. Not too crowded, kind of hidden in a first floor. Don't miss it. All dishes (US$1-7) have small and big versions, so you can order a few.
  • Paradise Garden Restaurant (Nha Hang Vuon Thien Dang), 17 Le Loi Street, Hue (in front of Saigon Morin Hotel), 838485. 07.00 - 23.00. Expensive, nice settings, not very authentic but still good- cheap by normal standards obviously. The live music is good. 1-5 USD.  

Bún bò Huế at Bun Bo Hue

Splurge

  • Tinh Gia Vien, 20/3 Le Thanh Ton, tel. +84-54-522243. Wonderful old Hue-style nha vuon garden villa on a quiet side street, formerly the residence of a princess, converted by a bonsai enthusiast into a restaurant serving Imperial cuisine. There are three set menus at US$15/20/25 ("big", "bigger" or "biggest", according to the menu) but all sets have 11 courses and are guaranteed to fill you up. The food wins full points for presentation, but is unfortunately somewhat toned down for the foreign palate.


  • Ancient Hue Royal Cuisine and Gallery  : One of the biggest restaurants in Hue. Prices are good, food is excellent, extremely clean. All is served by a professional staff, international experienced chef. It is also a complex of ancient houses among huge garden area, which makes you feel comfortable once you come here. Also, the food carvings are memorable, and the service is outstanding. Expect to pay between $30 per person, cheapest wine was $25 a bottle and beers started at $3.50 rather steep when you are paying $1 for a beer anywhere else. Well worth a visit, recommend getting a taxi there as quite difficult to find even with google maps.

Vegetarian

The people of Hue have a strong tradition of eating vegetarian food, so vegetarian restaurants are more common in Hue than in the rest of Vietnam. On the 1st and 15th of every lunar month, vegetarian restaurants are packed full of patrons for dinner and it may prove difficult to find a seat. Vegetarian restaurants are the cheapest places to eat, after street vendors.
  • Bo De, D Le Loi. Run by the Huong Giang travel company. Extremely popular with locals. Serves delicious vegetarian appetizers and entrees. Expect to fill yourself for US$2-3/person. While the restaurant serves truly wonderful cheap vegetarian dishes, for some reason the staff is very unfriendly with foreigners. Half of the dishes listed on the menu are not available.
  • Lien Hoa, D Le Quy Don. In the grounds of the Lien Hoa pagoda, across from the football stadium. Monks and nuns frequent this restaurant during lunch. A small shop near the door sells Vietnamese language Buddhist texts, prayer beads and icons.
  • Com Chay (vegetarian rice) Is near the River on on the 'newer side' it has simple, but good and cheap vegetarian meals.
  • Tinh Tam (or "calm soul") located at 12 Chu Van An tel.823572. Answering the question "Who would Buddha rip off?", this Buddhist restaurant in the backpacker district has a little scam going. There are two menus- an English one with strange dishes at high prices, and a Vietnamese one with normal Vietnamese dishes at normal prices. If you try to order off the Vietnamese menu, the owner will claim those dishes are not available. If you do succeed in ordering a Vietnamese dish, the owner will bring out an unidentifiable dish and claim it is what you ordered (going so far as to claim a plate of noodles and tomatoes was "pho") at 4-5 times the price. If you complain, the owner suddenly doesn't speak English. You can find plenty of unhappy customer reviews on the internet of this place. To avoid. Price: Vietnamese: 5000d / Other races: 40,000-50,000d.
  • Quang Tinh, 91 Vo Thi Sau, in the backpacker area. 6am-10pm. Very simple place, menu of noodles, rice, and so on, starting at 10,000d. Also sells cigarettes and hard alcohol.

Drink

  • B4 Bar-Café, 75 D Ben Nghe. A charming Belgian-Vietnamese owned bar, with a welcoming interior and free pool.
  • Brown Eyes Chillout Bar-Club, 56 Chu Van An, Hue, 054.827494. Happy hour(s) 5PM-10PM. Live DJ, free pool table, and a good vibe. Not far from Pham Ngu Lao, but they offer to pay for taxis from hotels for parties of four persons or more. Stays open till the last ones pass out! No cover.
  • Café on Thu Wheels, 1/2 D Nguyen Tri Phuong. It's a little bar owned by the charming lady Thu.
  • DMZ Bar & Café, 44 D Le Loi. Stays open late.
  • Why Not?, 21 Vo Thi Sau, 054-824793.  

  • Sinh To place, 30 Ben Nghe. Shop for drinking ice tea, coffee, smoothies and juices. Local prices (they are published on a board). Try Rau Má juice: when available it is meant to be very good for your health. Rau má (centella asiatica juice) 6000 dong, smoothies (sinh to) 8000 dong
  • Vy Da Xua, 131 Nguyen Sinh Cung St (east on Le Loi, about 1 mile past the causeway). Enjoy a delicious cup of Vietnamese coffee, or any beverage, in this beautiful setting. The traditional beam house is surrounded by a garden and small stream where you can hear birds and restful music. The perfect place to meet friends. 

Coffee

There are lots of small cafés (quán cafe) in Hue. Going out for coffee is a favorite local pastime. Most Hue people wouldn't think of starting the morning without meeting friends over a glassful. Most coffee shops open for business in the morning, close down from about 10:30 or so until late afternoon, then open again for the after-work and evening crowds. Do try the local style, iced, either with condensed milk, or black, which means with sugar. In the South, the iced coffee comes in a tall glass with lots of ice and lots of syrupy milk. In the Central area, the glass is much smaller, and the coffee is usually stronger. If you don't look Vietnamese, you may be served a weaker coffee, or if you order cafe nong (hot), they will also give you an extra glass of hot water to pour in. Do try your coffee first, to taste it the way the locals like it. Something like an iced, sweet espresso, with chocolaty overtones. Generally 6,000d-8,000d for Vietnamese people; 10,000d+ for foreigners.
  • Sidewalk Coffee - Opposite 30 Bach Dang st. Go local and try some delicious early morning coffee with chocolaty overtones, hot or iced, while watching river life on the canal. The woman who brews it up also offers banh mi, french bread with your choice of fillings. Another woman shares the same patch of sidewalk and sells very reasonably priced banh canh, a popular local breakfast soup. A real plus here is the cleanliness. The coffee glasses are spotless! Open from about 5:30 a.m. until 9 or 10, when the coffee and food are sold out. After your coffee, you can continue walking along Bach Dang to reach 2 famous local pagodas, both nearby.

Sleep

There are plenty of cheap traveller hotels and mid-market hotels in Hue, as well as a couple of expensive giants. The largest cluster is around the short lane of Pham Ngu Lao (including Le Loi, Hung Vuong, Chu Van An, Nguyen Cong Tru). It's not quite as big (or backpackery) as its Ho Chi Minh City namesake, but still a definite tourist magnet.


Budget

  • Canary Hotel, 37 Nguyen Cong Tru, 84.054.3839699,. All rooms are air-conditioned, all equipped with 32-inch LCD cable TV, shower with bathtub, and mini-bar. Some of its facilities are bar and restaurant, Internet room, boutique and souvenir shop, and laundry service. Rates on official website start at USD 15.65
  • Phong Lan, 12/66 Le Loi Street, 054.3826255. Very nice and clean Hotel located in a small, calm side street near Pham Ngu Lao. All rooms have balcony, AC, own bathroom. Rooms for 2 to 4 persons. Free wi-fi, bicycle and motorbike rental available. Staff is very friendly and speaks good english. 10$
  • Hue Backpacker's Hostel, 10 Pham Ngu Lao Street, (), . From the makers of the ever popular Hanoi Backpacker's Hostel. Hue Backpacker's is the newest addition to Pham Ngu Lao and is rapidly becoming the spot to stay and hang out. Cheap accommodation, very clean, spacious balconies to relax and read a book, and they've got an elevator for your packs. Free Internet, continental breakfast included, WiFi, and super friendly helpful staff. The downstairs area is also a bar and restaurant serving arguably the best burgers in Hue and other western delights. From US$6
  • Waterland hotel.add : 35/42 Nguyen Cong Tru.st.Huecity .Tel : (+84.54)3935435 / 3935735 .Email : info@waterlandhotel.com .Website: www.waterlandhotel.com .Waterland Hotel is aBoutique Hotel located on Nguyen Cong Tru street, just a minute's walk to the famous Perfume River. It offers a modern and diverse range of facilities and services. All the rooms in the hotel have wooden floors and are equipped with IDD telephone, air-conditioning, cable TV, refrigerator, bathroom, (bath-tub and shower), hair-dryer, coffee and tea making facilities, private computer with ADSL for free.
  • Amigo Hotel, 66/3 Le Loi Street, +84 54 3838006 (, fax: +84 54 3838005),. Tucked away find in the heart of the guesthouse/cheaper district. Friendly staff, good rooms and rates negotiable. Free WiFi and PCs available for guest use. Air-con. Sat TV. Laundry service at 20,000 dong per kilo. Restaurant downstairs does great food and very reasonably priced. US$13-25
  • Bamboo Hotel, 61 Hung Vuong, +84-54-3828345. Good Hotel. The staff is friendly, the rooms are clean and neat. There is free internet available. From US$10..
  • Bao Son Hotel, 39 Nguyen Cong Tru, 84.54.3827189,. Clean, new and well kept with friendly staff.wifi. tv cable. Air conditioning and fans in every room. Laundry available. From US$ 10.  
  • Binh Duong I Hotel, 17/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong Alley, 054-382-9990. Aircon, hot water & satellite TV included. Popular with Japanese tourists. Friendly and helpful staff. Some rooms have bath-tubs and/or private balcony. From US$10. Dorms are $4 (84k dong)..
  • Halo, 10A/66 D Le Loi (up an alley coming off the main road, where there is an array of other guest houses - there's a small sign for it along with some others at the alley's entrance). Spotless rooms, spacious, with large bathrooms and TV. There is a balcony to sit at night, and it's close to all the nightlife in Hue. Doubles 160,000 dong / US$10..
  • Mimosa Guesthouse, Le Loi, 054.828068. friendly, quiet location in a backpacker hotel alley off Le Loi. From US$4.
  • Minh Hieu Hotel, 3 Chu Van An, 054.828725. Family-run hotel named after the wild urchin who'll make his displeasure known if you spend too long on the Internet-ready computer downstairs, thereby keeping him from online puzzle games. The rooms are spotlessly clean, with satellite TV, hot water, and mini-fridges; each floor has a balcony, and it's not too loud outside. Breakfast is available for US$1. From US$10.
  • Sports Hotel, 15 Pham Ngu Lao Street. Nice cheap 2-star hotel located on the main tourist hangout. Surprisingly clean and big spacious rooms and not far from the river. From US$10..
  • Valentine hotel, Number7, lane 64 Nguyen Cong Tru street, +84543817665 (, fax: +84543817898),. checkin: 10 a.m; checkout: 12 p.m. usd12.
  • Lam Bao Long Hotel, 80 Le Loi St, 054.3822804. checkin: 8.00 AM; checkout: 12.00 PM. Has 15 non smoking rooms, air conditioning, bathrobes, daily newspaper, desk, hair dryer. 12.00 USD.

Mid-range

  • Holiday (Diamond) Hotel, 6/14 Nguyen Cong Tru. Exceptionally good value. The spotless, airconditioned rooms ($20-35) are well-furnished with modern amenities, and include lockable wardrobes. The included breakfast is substantial. The staff are very attentive, and will learn and try to remember your name using memory-training tricks. They will warmly welcome you back after each foray outside, and provide you with free drinks (lemon juice, corn-water) every time you enter, and whenever you sit in the lobby. The nearby Jade Hotel (17 Nguyen Thai Hoc) has the same ownership so includes the same standard of staff-training in simpler rooms ($15-20). Book a few days ahead (at either hotel) and they will pick you up from the train station. 


  • Hanh Dat Hotel, 15 Pham Van Dong St. Vy Da, Thua Thien Hue, 84 54 3898486, . Rooms with air-conditioning, wi-fi anternet access and 32-inch LCD TV with satellite/ cable channels. Facilities and services are restaurant, business center, fax and photocopying services. From USD 25.
  • Asia Hotel. Opened only in December 2004, but despite the token modern TV, the fittings seem much older. The rooms are well enough equipped though and the rooftop restaurant and pool have nice views. Rooms from a slightly overpriced US$30, including a decent buffet breakfast.
  • New Star Hotel, 36 Chu Van An street, +84.54. 3834647, . A 3-star hotel offering 56 air-conditioned rooms, all of which have a cable television, an Internet connection, and a mini-bar. Some of its amenities include massage and sauna, an outdoor swimming pool, and a souvenir shop. Best rates on official website start at US$ 45
  • Orchid Hotel, . This hotel feels like a 5-star establishment with very professional and personable staff. Clean, spacious, and beautifully designed rooms. Double rooms US$35 (27 Euros), including a decent buffet breakfast. They picked me up from the train station for free and offered me use of a motorbike for free. My bed was huge. 
  • Park View Hotel Hue, 9 Ngo Quyen, +(84-54) 837382. Park View Hotel is a four star hotel in the center of the city, near the Perfume River. It's a 10-minute walk to Hue Citadel. 
  • Thai Y Hotel Hue, No 10 Pham Van Dong, +84 054.3897373,. Thai Y Hotel is a no star hotel, a little away from center of the city, but its accessible to city center. Its brand new, started in 2009, very clean, comfortable, has good wifi connection in-room, brand new bathroom fixtures, have a few quirks here and there but nothing unbearable. One of the young proprietor speaks decent English and friendly.US$17-35 
  • Vina Hotel Hue, 57/03 Nguyen Cong Tru St, 84 (54)625114,. Hotel surrounded by trees. Rooms with river or city view. US$28-50

Splurge

  • La Residence, 5 D Le Loi (Walking distance from the train station), (84) 054 837 475. Renovated and restored 4 years ago, it tries to bring to life the French colonial era of the 1920's. It has the largest swimming pool and spa in Hue, and the general manager are British and the head chef is the high profile Vietnamese chef . From US$136.
  • Saigon Morin, 30 Le Loi Street. Hue's grand old hotel, opened by a Mr. Morin from France and running strong for over a hundred years. Excellent riverside location, white-washed colonial charm and a pleasant inner courtyard, although the rooms could use a little fine-tuning. From US$100..

Stay safe

Hue is a safe city, and there is not much to worry about. However, at night all cyclo-drivers, especially in Pham Ngu Lao area, should be avoided. There are recent cases in which travellers have been mugged, beaten and robbed by these people. During the day a ride should be fine, but at night, especially when they say its free or "up to you" avoid them at all costs.

Get out

  • Hue travel agents are keen to sell day-tours of the former Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), which was supposed to be a buffer between North and South Vietnam, but which saw intense fighting. DMZ trips will include the famous Vinh Moc tunnels, where a few hundred people lived for two and a half years.
  • Surrounding Countryside You can be outside the city of Hue and into the jade green rice fields in just 10 minutes. Whether by car, motorbike or bicycle, there is much to see. (It's a bit too far to go by foot). Different villages tend to specialize in different handicrafts, so you can visit one area to see noodle-making, another for incense, then move on to see bronze-crafting, or rice cultivation.
  • Hoi An - old merchant port 100km away (about 4 hours by road or train - though train, 67,000d, stops at Danang, will need to take local bus from there), with Da Nang, the Marble Mountains and China Beach as potential stops along the way
  • Dong Hoi - about 3 hours north of Hue, sleepy seaside town to sit around in. Bus from Hue (March '12): local bus: 80,000d / Sinh Cafe bus: 400,000d / Tourist buses: 300,000d.
  • Nam Dong district - great place for visiting Co Tu villages on the fringe of Bach Ma National Park
  • Beware booking buses with Moon Travel (Nguyen Tri Phuong), with promises of a bus dropping you off at your hotel in the destination city. They change buses, and then ultimately you end up at the bus station with no recourse.
  • There are also frequent bus services to Savannakhet and Vientiane in Laos. Buses leave at 06:00 and 18:00. There are 3 scheduled direct buses to Vientiane - 6:00 am, 9:30 am and 6:00 pm. The trip to Savannakhet takes about 12 hours and cost around US$12, to Vientiane about 14-18 hours depending how many stops bus makes and US$ 20-30. The vehicle can be anything between minibus, air-con bus to a local 30 years old bus. Usually buses packed with traders and their cargo that finding enough space would be a problem. You'll probably have to change bus 3-4 times during the trip and toilets (aside from squatting in the jungle) are seldom available. Tickets can be bought in any booking office in the center of Hue.
  • VIP Bus to Savannakhet run by Lao state company leave 8.30 at sounthern bus station 5/week everyday except Sunday and Friday cost VND220,000 and From savannakhet to Hue departure 10.00 AM at Savannakhet bus station Mon-Friday 100,000kip(July, 2009) 
From : http://wikitravel.org/en/Hue

Hanoi Hotels



Hanoi

Contents


Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Hanoi (Vietnamese: Hà Nội), the capital of Vietnam, and also its second largest city, is a fascinating blend of East and West, with Chinese influence from centuries of dominance, and French design from its colonial past. It is largely unspoiled by modern architecture of the 1970s and 80s, and is now going through a modernization that is making it a rising star in Southeast Asia.

Understand

Invading forces from every direction agree: Hanoi makes a fine capital. It has held that title for more than a thousand years, through several invasions, occupations, restorations, and name changes. The Chinese conquered the imperial city of of Đại La in 1408 and renamed it Tống Bình. Le Loi repelled the invaders in 1428 and applied the name of Lê Thái Tổ (黎太祖); for his efforts, he received the crown and a slew of legends about his heroic exploits, many centred around the Hoan Kiem Lake in the Old Quarter. The Nguyen Dynasty gave the city its modern name of Ha Noi in 1831, but they had transferred power to Hue by then; it remained there until 1887, when the French made Hanoi the capital of all Indochina. It changed hands again in 1954, when it was ceded to Ho Chi Minh and the Viet Minh after almost a decade of fighting, and it became the capital of North Vietnam; upon reunification in 1975, it assumed that title for the entire country.

The first western-style universities in Vietnam were founded in Hanoi, and today, it is the leading centre of scientific study and research in the country. Hanoi retains much of its older colonial charm, despite the battles that have raged over it; conflict had the side effect of making it largely oblivious to modern architecture, and as a result, few buildings in the city centre area are higher than five stories. The Old Quarter is second only to Hoi An for uninterrupted stretches of colonial and pre-colonial architecture, well-preserved on dense warrens of narrow, wonderfully atmospheric streets. It trades the commercial boom and sprawl of Ho Chi Minh City in the South for a more understated charm, worth enjoying for an extra day or two, and with countless transport options and travel agents, it makes a perfect base for exploration of the North.

As you walk along the street, you may find that people start talking to you. It is a cultural norm there to make conversation with strangers. They might ask you where you are from and other general questions. And be very cautious especially if a lady will approach you and over-solicitously insist that she is a student without being asked what is her station in life.
It takes awhile to get used to that. However, there are times when you find this friendliness extremely helpful, such as when you are lost or need help.

The Tourist Information Centre, ☎ +84 4 926 3366, Dinh Tien Hoang, just north of Hoan Kiem Lake, can provide a fairly useful map (bewilderingly, the blow-up of the old town is missing making it useless in that part of town) and other English-language advice, as well as limited free Internet. They aren't completely without bias.

There are self-help interactive screen information booths around the Old Quarter but their purpose is to superficially conjure the image of coming-of-age "Vietnam has arrived" impression to the unsuspecting passerby. An example was an inquiry typing out the American Embassy as prompted by an empty field, then it flashed on to the next interactive page asking for which district (one may not be aware that the US embassy has branches in every district) - smart and amazing!


Ho Tay/West Lake, Hanoi

Climate

The Tet holiday (Lunar New Year’s Eve) is in the Spring. Flowers are the most beautiful during this time of the year. The weather starts to warm up with light rain here and there during the week. Hanoians believe that these light rains bring prosperity and luck for the New Year.

The Summer, on the other hand, is quite intolerable. The heat alone would be alright but there is the humidity which would start to manifest in the air since Spring. Visitors also have to be very careful with mosquitoes because there are a lot in Hanoi due to the level of moisture in the air and the temperature. Hanoi has a good climate for many insects to proliferate, not just mosquitoes.

There is something unique about Hanoi’s Autumn. The weather is perfect with less humidity in the air. The temperature would drop by now, offering people a chance to take out their fleece and jackets. Moreover, there is this type of tree – “cay hoa sua” which only has flowers in Autumn. The flower has a very distinct smell. If you have the chance to visit Hanoi during Autumn, make sure you ask the local people about this type of trees and where you can experience their distinct aroma.

Winter can be quite brutal because it is not only cold, but also very humid. The winter in Hanoi feels even colder due to the fact that Vietnamese houses typically don’t have a central heating system. Many houses don’t have any types of heating at all.
January is a drizzly and even rainy month. It may rain two days or days in a row all day long for a week. Don't go unless you have an aversion to getting a glimpse of the sun.

Get in

By plane

Departure tax
As of November 2006, international departure taxes should be included in the price of your ticket, but that doesn't necessarily mean they will be - check with the airline to be absolutely sure. If not, the tax (sometimes called "passenger service charge") is payable in U.S. dollars (US$14) or in dong.
Most people arrive at the Noi Bai International Airport (HAN), 35 km (45-60 minutes) north of the city. The airport might seem relatively small considering Hanoi's importance to the country, but this might benefit travelers by making the airport easy to navigate and no need to arrive hours in advance (the limited waiting space is one reason why non-travelers are discouraged from entering the airport) to make sure there is plenty of room for those actually using and working in the airport. Several airlines run flights from Noi Bai, including:
  • Aeroflot (Moscow-Sheremetyevo)
  • Hong Kong Airlines (Hong Kong)
  • Indochina Airlines 63 Ly Thuong Kiet St. – Tran Hung Đao Ward – Hoan Kiem District. ☎ +84 4 3941 1411,
  • JetStar Asia/Pacific Airlines ☎ +84 4 9550550   - Discount Vietnamese carrier (formerly Pacific Air) for domestic flights and low-cost flights to/from Singapore.
  • Korean Air (Busan, Seoul-Incheon) 
  • Malaysia Airlines ☎ +60 3 7843 3000)  - Daily flights from Kuala Lumpur.
  • Qatar Airways (Bangkok-Suvarnabhumi, Doha)  
  • Singapore Airlines ☎ +84 4 3826 8888)  - Full-service airline with daily flights to/from Singapore.
  • Thai Airways International  - Two flights daily to/from Bangkok.
  • Tiger Airways (Singapore) ☎ +84 4 94 54565) 
  • Vietnam Airlines - 25 Tràng Thi (corner of Quang Trung) ☎ +84 4 934 9660 fax: +84 4 934 9620,  - The primary national carrier.
If departing from Noi Bai airport via Vietnam Airlines with no checked luggage, walk to the last airline check-in counter and to the right of it, there's a sign showing check-in for passengers without checked luggage. Using this counter is a great time saver if it applies to your journey.

  From the airport

  • Taxis to central Hanoi can be hired at Noi Bai . There is a fixed price taxi stand right outside the exit, offering fares between US$10-16 into the city. It is slightly more expensive than the tout taxis, but you pre-pay for the trip, so no hassles about the fare. Other drivers may try to take you to a hotel of their choice to collect a commission, but if you are specific about your destination, they usually give in. As you leave the airport all sorts of US$ prices will be quoted by taxi agents, ranging from around US$15-$30. Be sure you have a clear price agreement with the driver before getting into the car as the price quoted by the agent may not be what the driver is expecting. If you have changed money into dong at the airport you can, of course, pay in local currency. The prevailing rate at the end of 2010 seemed to be around 350,000 dong. If you fly in late and don't want the taxi haggling hassles consider pre-arranging a private transfer with your hotel or book online at [YourLocalBooking.com] 
  • If you already have a hotel booked, you might ask the hotel to dispatch a driver. The nicer hotels will do this and put the fare on your room bill.
  • Public buses to the city centre from Noi Bai airport take about 1,5 hour. Bus #07 crosses the Thang Long bridge and goes to the Daewoo Hotel on the western part of Hanoi (almost an hour on foot to the historical centre of Hanoi). Bus #17 crosses the Chuong Duong bridge and goes close to the old quarter, to Long Bien (just a few blocks from Hoan Kiem Lake - the destination of most tourists). Prices are 4,000 dong and 5,000 dong, respectively. To catch buses 7 or 17, go to the 2nd floor of the terminal, proceed outside, and walk along the ramp to your left. The ramp, like a highway overpass, will take you to the other side of the road than if you had just exited on the 1st floor arrivals section. Buses 7 and 17 depart from right at the end of the ramp. However, baggage is not permitted aboard the buses, so you may need to wait a few minutes to try your luck several times or give the conductor a small bribe, i.e. paying for the baggage as well. Don't listen to taxi drivers or shuttle bus operators that claim the stop for the public buses is a few kilometers away or that service has been terminated. Public buses operate from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m.
  • Shuttle-buses from the airport to Hanoi stop at the Vietnam Airlines Office on 1 Quang Trung (a bit south of the old quarter but conveniently stocked with taxis and motorbike drivers, of course!). Tickets are sold in the building in front of which the minibuses park, or you can give the fare directly to the driver. The cost is US$2 or 40,000 dong for foreigners (insurance reason), and 35,000 dong for Vietnamese (which includes VN-Americans),which rate is indicated on the sticker fixed to the bus's body. The driver will potentially give you trouble if you have additional bags, but if you push, you will get the same US$2 rate. They also try the 'typhoon in Ha Long Bay' scam whereby they take you to a street where you cannot see the hotel name and tell you that the Ha Long Bay guests are still in the hotel and they will take you to their other hotel for the same price. This place is a complete dive facing the highway. You should also beware the drivers trying to offer you a ride to your hotel for US$5, claiming the Old Quarter is 5km from the office - it is much cheaper to go to the Vietnam Airlines office and switch to a taxi (or walk, it's 2km MAX to anywhere in the Old Quarter). The taxi will not cost more than the US$3 price differential and if it does, you should refuse to pay as the driver has cheated you somehow. The shuttle buses are also available to get to airport hourly.

  By train

Trains to Nanning, China depart from Gia Lam Station (GPS 21.05213,105.87939), about 5km north-east of Hanoi Station, although tickets can be purchased from Hanoi Station. A ticket for a soft sleeper compartment (4-berth compartment) costs 568,000 dong per person. Be cautious buying these tickets from hotels or travel agents in the Old Quarter, as they may quote prices substatially higher.

All other trains use the main Hanoi train station (Ga Hang Co, 120 Le Duan, ☎ +84 4 825 3949), for daily services from cities in the south including Hue and Nha Trang. The Reunification Express goes all the way to Ho Chi Minh City, although there is very little 'express' about it.

There are also train services to the north-west (including Lao Cai, from which you reach Sapa. To board trains bound for these destinations, you have to enter the railway station compound through the "backdoor" at Tran Quy Cap station. Just tell your driver which destination your train is heading to. Be mindful of any "helpful" stranger who offers to carry your luggage - he probably has a sum more than the cost of the ticket in mind for the help.
Tickets for all destinations are sold in the main station, though there are two counter halls, north and south, serving the respective destinations.

Technically, there is a queuing system in place to buy tickets at Hanoi Station which involves obtaining a numbered docket and waiting to be called up to one of the ticket counters. In practice, the process is chaotic and many locals disregard the system altogether, often pushing their way to the counters to be served. If travelling to Nanning, China, it is advisable to ask a staff member where to go, as not all counters can sell these tickets.

Buy your tickets as early as possible, especially since sleeper-tickets can be sold out several days in advance. If you can't get a ticket anymore, try a travel-agent who still might have stocks. You may also try your luck in the station just before boarding time, agents still holding tickets will be eager to sell as the departure draws near. Nevertheless, travel agencies in Hanoi are known for their bad business practices. Some of them will try to overcharge you up to 300%, so it is better go to the train station by yourself and find out about the prices before you agree on any deal.

By bus

Most of the "open-tour" bus itineraries either begin or end in Hanoi, with Hue the next (or previous) stop (12-14 hr, US$8-9), and from there to Hoi An, Nha Trang, Dalat, Mui Ne, Ho Chi Minh City, and other cities in Vietnam, depending on the bus company. Most seem to stop at their office which could be right next to the old district / most backpacker hotels. Check when booking ticket.

Many of the same companies also sell tickets to Vientiane and Savannakhet in Laos (US$16-18). Do some research before you buy a ticket as rattle-trap scam buses abound on this route.
See Ho Chi Minh City to Shanghai overland if you're interested in crossing over to China by bus or train.

Get around


Traffic in Hanoi

Taxis are the best way to travel long distances, but the cyclos, or pedicabs, are a cheap way to make shorter trips. Taxi fares are not always consistent, and the rates for each taxi company have not been standardized. For lone travellers, rides on the back of motorbikes (actually low-powered scooters) are popular too (known as xe om, literally meaning motorbike-hug).

By taxi

Some meter taxi owners in Hanoi will attempt to negotiate a flat fee in advance rather than use the meter. If you have a fair idea of how far you're going or how much you're willing to pay, this is probably a good idea. If the driver refuses, turning around and walking away will almost certainly change his mind. Don't sweat it, it's all part of the expected negotiation protocol. It has also become common for the drivers of some of the less reputable taxi companies to "fix" their meters to run faster hence running up a high bill very fast! The recommendation is to only use the reputable and reliable taxi companies. These are Hanoi Taxi, ☎ +84 4 3853 5353), Taxi CP, ☎ +84 4 3826 2626), Mai Linh Taxi , ☎ +84 4 3861 6161). Another common scam by taxis is that the driver takes you for a "sightseeing" - and extends the tour to make more money. This is very hard to discover unless you know the city well, but if you catch your driver doing this (e.g. going around Hoan Kiem Lake twice), demand that he stop the taxi and leave the taxi without paying.

Be very careful with meter taxis in Hanoi. Some have central locking, and are known to lock passengers in, and demand large amounts of US dollars before letting them go. The driver may threaten to have you beaten up or arrested should you not give in to his demands, but if you kick up enough of a fuss, they will let you go.

Most taxi drivers speak limited English, so it's a good practice to get your hotel to write the name and address of you destination in Vietnamese to show the taxi driver, and get your hotel's business card in case you get lost.

Be vigilant when taking a taxi - driver jumps out at destination and dumps most of your bags out of the trunk. While you're busy putting rucksack on he has taken off with your other bags.

Be vigilant also the meter which can run as far or even faster than a digital clock. Do keep an eye on the meter during the journey. Fare flag drops starting at 12,000 dong.

By motorbike driver

Motorbike drivers can be found on virtually every corner, especially in the Old Quarter. Expect to be offered a ride every half-block (or more). You should absolutely negotiate a fare in advance, and again, turn around and walk away if you don't like their offer. There are far more drivers than tourists, and they know it - your fare could be the only one they get all day. You should also write down the negotiated fare (with all zeros) to avoid confusion. Even if you do speak Vietnamese, a driver might pretend that you said 50,000 dong instead of 15,000, In case of argument over fares after the ride, keep calm and repeat the original agreement (remember, you have the leverage). A typical 10 min fare should cost no more than 15,000-20,000 dong. Many drivers will accept US dollars as well. At the end of a ride, some will offer to hang around to drive you to your next destination - either be clear that you don't want a return ride (and don't go near him when you leave), or get a price in advance. Otherwise, you might be surprised when the driver tacks on several million dong for having waited.

Keep your wallet out of arms reach of the drivers when you pay, less honest motorbike drivers are not adverse to grabbing your wallet and helping themselves to any notes they like the look of before jumping on their bike and speeding off.

By cyclo

Negotiate first or avoid using the cyclos services, they can demand 200,000 dong (US$12) for a short ride of less than 100 m (330 ft). At the end of the journey, a few men will come over to translate, and they will pretend to help and later insist that you pay the demanded amount.

Motorbike rental

Motorcycles can be rented for around US$5-6 a day, and can be arranged by most hotels. This is good for making lots of trips around the city for individuals or duos, but be careful: Hanoi traffic is very difficult place to sharpen motorbike skills. Park on the sidewalk with other bikes, and be sure to lock the front wheel. Locals will help arrange the bikes near their stores. Many shops that have bike attendants will give you a ticket in exchange for parking your bike. This may or may not come with a fee (typically ranging from 2,000-5,000 dong). The ticket will either have your license plate number written on it, or the ticket itself will be numbered, with that number subsequently chalked somewhere on your bike. In such cases (where you've been given a ticket), the attendants may ask that you NOT lock the steering column or front wheel of your bike so that they can rearrange the bikes as customers come and go.

By bus

Scam free, cheap but a bit difficult to comprehend at first, the buses in Hanoi are relatively fast and surprisingly comfortable. Pick up a map with printed bus lines at the Trang Tien street (the book street by the Opera house) and spend a few minutes to identify the over 60 bus lines, find your bus stop, wait for the bus, pay 3,000 dong and off you go. If you are unfamiliar with the city, make sure to inform the conductor where you want to get off.

List bus routes: English, Vietnamese
Bus maps: English, Vietnamese

By car

Hanoi's traffic is chaotic, with seemingly perpetual traffic jams, and a large number of almost suicidal motorcyclists and pedestrians. As such, driving yourself around is not recommended, and you should leave your transportation needs in the hands of professionals.

By Metro

The city will be serviced by Metro sometime around 2015. Construction began in 2010.

See

Museums

  • Vietnamese Women's Museum - Bảo Tàng Phụ nữ Việt Nam, 36 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem District (Located in central Hanoi, 1 km South of Hoan Kiem Lake), +84 04 38259938 (, fax: 84 04 38259129). Tu-Su 8.00AM-4.30PM. This often overlooked museum has recently benefited from an extensive renovation of its permanent exhibitions. The modernised interior is well laid out with information in Vietnamese, English and French, and contains a huge amount of information on the fearsome female heroines of Vietnamese history. There are also exhibitions on the rituals and traditions surrounding women in family, as well as a beautifully presented collection of intricate hand-made ethnic costumes. A particular highlight are the regularly updated special exhibitions on a diverse range of subjects, from contemporary issues such as single mothers and street vendors to traditional medicine and Mother Goddess worship. English language tours are available on request. 30,000 dong
  • Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. 8AM to 11AM. Closed Mon & Fri. Last entrance 10:15. The city down south may have his name, but only Hanoi has the man himself, entombed in distinctly Lenin-esque fashion - against his wishes, but that's how it goes. No talking, revealing clothing (shorts should be knee length and no exposed shoulders), or other signs of disrespect allowed while viewing; photos are allowed only from outside, in the grand Ba Dinh Square. Purses are allowed into the tomb, but expect them to be searched by several bored soldiers along the way. Left luggage is handled in a complicated scheme: there is an office near the street for large bags, with separate windows for Vietnamese and foreigners, and a further office for cameras, which will be transported to a third office right outside the exit of the mausoleum. Items checked in at the first office, however, will stay there. Note that the mausoleum is closed for a couple months around the end of the year, when the body is taken abroad for maintenance. Free

Ho Chi Minh Museum
  • Ho Chi Minh Museum, 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh, +84 4 846-3572 (). 8AM-11:30AM, 2PM-4PM, closed M and F afternoons. This gleaming white museum and its gloriously ham-handed iconography are the perfect chaser to the solemnity of the mausoleum. The building, completed in 1990, is intended to evoke a white lotus. Some photos and old letters are on display on the second floor, but the main exhibition space is on the third floor. It includes cars crashing through walls to represent the chaos of post-war American capitalism, soldiers charging around with electric plugs, a cave hideout re-imagined as the inside of Ho Chi Minh's brain, and several other postmodern confections integrated with the main story of the man's life and his country's struggle. One of the more informative museums in Vietnam, and perhaps one of the oddest in the world. Guides are available in English, French, Chinese and Russian, but don't bother; the displays are labeled in English and French, and it's hard to imagine the guides doing much other than belaboring the point. 25,000 dong.  
  • Ho Chi Minh's Vestige In The Presidential Palace Area, No.1 Bach Thao, Ba Dinh, +84 4 0804 4529. Summer 7:30AM-11AM, 2PM-4PM. Winter 8AM-11AM, 1:30PM-4PM, closed M F afternoons. The exit from the mausoleum takes you right into the grounds of the, uh, vestige, where Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 until his death in 1969. The nicely landscaped complex includes two of Ho Chi Minh's houses, kept shiny and "as he left them" by the authorities, as well as a garage with two of Ho's "used cars" and a carp-filled pond. The Presidential Palace is also nearby, but it's not always open to visitors. Pamphlets are available in English, Chinese, French, and Korean. Guided tours are usually available if you wait. Paying is not enforced unless you are one of the unlucky few to be outed from the crowd. 25,000 dong.   

One Pillar Pagoda
  • One-Pillar Pagoda, (Tucked away between the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum). Travellers find the One-Pillar Pagoda either charming and lovely or utterly pointless, depending on how many tour groups are crammed into the small grounds at the time of their visit. Free.   
  • Fine Arts Museum - Bảo Tàng Mỹ Thuật, 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St. Tuesday to Sun from 9:15am to 5pm. Only party-approved art is shown here and there is no information in English and only little in Vietnamese. But it is an interesting museum at any rate, with pieces such as the wonderful pictures of soldiers on boats depicted on prehistoric bronze drums, Buddhist art, and revolutionary art of the 20th century wars. Also some interesting silk paintings. 20,000 dong.   
  • Army Museum - Bảo Tàng Quân Đội, Dien Bien Phu St. 8AM-11:30AM, 1:00PM-4:30PM, closed on Monday and Friday. Vietnam's military history extends back some two millennia, and this museum covers it on four buildings with interesting pieces. Item descriptions on museum exhibits are in Vietnamese, French and English. On display outside are the ubiquitous MiG-21 jet fighter, T-54 tank and many bombs and articles captured on Indochina and Vietnam wars. closed monday and friday. 30,000 dong, additional 20,000 dong to take pictures (rarely enforced).   
  • Air Force Museum - Bảo Tàng Không Quân, Truong Chinh St (SW of the city centre). There's a decent outdoor collection of a UH-1 helicopter, Soviet-built MiG fighters, a huge Mi-6 helicopter, and other aircraft; unfortunately they've been exposed to the elements for some time and local kids climb over them.   

National Museum of Vietnamese History
  • National Museum of Vietnamese History -Bảo tàng Lịch sử Việt Nam, 1 Trang Tien St. 8AM-11:30AM, 1:30PM-4:30PM. This is a collection from Vietnamese history from about 1,000 years back until 1945. Many antiques and the such. 15,000 dong, students 8,000 dong and under 15, 2,000 dong. 15,000 dong for a camera/30,000 dong for a video.  
  • Museum of the Vietnamese Revolution -Bảo tàng Cách mạng Việt Nam, 25 Tong Dan St (and 216 Tran Quang Khai St . Tu-Su 8AM-11:45AM, 1:30PM-4:15PM. This museum gives a very informed and detailed account of the Vietnamese struggle against first the French (starting in 1858 -- on the first floor), then against the Americans (on the ground floor - ending on 30 April 1975). It is housed in a colonial French building which was completed in 1932. The building, designed by the architect Ernest Hébrard is considered as a successful blend between the colonial French architecture and traditional Vietnamese architecture, called Indochina architecture. He created double-walls and balconies for a natural ventilation system and protection from sunshine. 10,000 dong.  
  • Museum of Ethnology - Bao Tang Dan Toc Hoc Vietnam, Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay district (Bus 14 from Hoan Kiem Lake - ask the conductor when to stop, and take a 500 m walk towards the museum (backtrack a little from the bus stop, and when you see a large street perpendicular to the street that you dropped off, take that street and walk down the street until you see the Museum of Ethnology to your left). Bus 38 goes from right outside the Temple of Literature to the street the museum is on.) . Tu-Su 8:30AM-5:30PM. covers mainly the culture and ritual practices of the various ethnic groups in the whole of Vietnam - one of the key attractions of the museum is the open-air exhibition, which has houses of some ethnic groups, which even comes with inhabitants in costumes. The museum features actual explanations of the exhibits in Vietnamese, French and English. The Museum of Ethnology houses the excellent chocolate and baguette cafe, which has excellent fare at a reasonable price - an excellent pit-stop after the museum visit. 25,000 dong for foreigners.   
  • Hanoi Museum - Bảo tàng Hà Nội, Pham Hung St, Cau Giay district

  Temples


Temple of Literature
  • Temple of Literature - Văn Miếu, Quoc Tu Giam St (south of the Mausoleum). The Temple of Literature was founded in 1070 and established as the country's first university six years later. The courtyard features numerous stone tablets, each mounted on the back of a tortoise, with the names of graduates. 20,000 dong (as of March 2012).  
  • Ngoc Son Temple. Extends out into the lake, with small but attractive grounds, displays on Vietnamese history and, more memorably, displays on the giant turtles, including a mummified specimen. 20,000 dong.   
  • Bach Ma Temple, 76 Hang Buom St, Hoan Kiem district. Time: the 12th to the 13th day of the second lunar month. Objects of worship: Bach Ma God (the symbol of God of sun), Long Do God (the god defends the east), confer a title of “Thang Long Capital of Nation royal tutelary god". Xuan Nguu presenting rite. 

  Parks


Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi
  • Hoan Kiem Lake. A pleasant park in the centre of town, within easy walking distance from anywhere in the Old Quarter. It's the locals' favorite leisure spot, and a great place to watch people practicing tai chi in the morning or to sit and read in the afternoon. Hoan Kiem means "returned sword", and the name comes from a legend in which King Le Loi was given a magical sword by the gods, which he used to drive out the invading Chinese. Later, while boating on the lake, he encountered a giant turtle, which grabbed the sword and carried it down to its depths, returning it to the gods from whom it had come. (You can see a version of the legend at the Water Puppet Theater - see below.) Rumor has it the giant turtles still inhabit the lake. 
  • Ho Tay - West Lake, (northwest of the city). mostly a residential hub of the well-to-do. Hotel Intercontinental and Hanoi Sheraton are on this lakefront. The shores are occupied by numerous fishermen   
  • Lenin Statue & Park, (Dien Bien Phu St, across from the Army Museum). One can always feel the diversity and liveliness of Hanoi there. In the morning, there are low-energy aerobics class for the elders and aerobic class for younger in the morning. During the day, one can enjoy the tranquility in the park since everybody is either at work or in school. In the afternoon, it becomes a playground for children and students as well as for soccer teams and badminton players.   
  • Ly Thai To Statue & Park. The park faces Hoan Kiem lake with a beautiful view of the busy Hang Bai street and the serenity of the willows on the bank of the lake. Many Hanoians view this mini-park as their favourite place because it is a symbol of the integration of modernity and tradition. One would surely encounter a group of youths who is practicing hip-hop and break dance while at the same time, meeting a three-generation family enjoying a walk in the park.   

  Wartime sites

  • Hoa Lo Prison (The Hanoi Hilton), 1 Hoa Lo, Hoan Kiem. 8:30AM-11:30AM, 1:30PM-4:30PM. This prison was built by the French at the turn of the 20th century, in classical French prison design. This is where the French imprisoned and executed many of the Vietnamese freedom fighters. Now a museum (2/3 of the prison was torn down to make way for the Hanoi Towers), the museum exhibits the brutal French colonial regime and the struggle of the Vietnamese people against imperialism in chilling detail. The prison was also known as the "Hanoi Hilton" during the Vietnam War as it held American POW's shot down. Little emphasis is given to this period however, and the exhibits shown can be frustratingly skewed in propaganda, choosing to show solely propaganda photos of prisoners being treated well and playing basketball, playing chess, and other staged events. They also claim to have John McCain's flight suit from when his plane was shot down. 20,000 dong.   
  • B-52 Lake - Huu Tiep Lake, Ngoc Ha Precinct, Ba Dinh District. Until 19 December 1972, this was just a small brackish pond just off Hoang Hoa Tham Street, about 1 km west of the mausoleum. On that day, in a twisted retelling of the Hoan Kiem legend (see above), Vietnamese anti-aircraft guns (possibly with the help of flying turtles) retook the enemy's eight-engined, 100-ton sword and sent it too, to the shallow bottom of the lake, where it remains today.   
  • Downed Aircraft Memorial. Along Thanh Nien Street on Truc Bach lake there is a stone plaque commemorating the shooting down of a U.S. Navy (not "USAF" as depicted) aircraft in 1967. Peruse the Vietnamese script and you can pick out the name of John McCain, one of the airmen.  
  • Army Museum, (Dien Bien Phu street, across from the Lenin Statue mini-park and is in the area of embassies). Retells the stories of many battles throughout the country’s history. There are documents as well as models in the museum to make the retelling more interesting. They have the model of the B-52 plane, tanks and even canons.  

  Do

  • SF Salon and Spa, 30 Cua Dong | Hoan Kiem, 844 9262032 9101236. Nice but not too expensive spa with a range of services, including massages, manicures/pedicures, facials. They will pay for your one-way cab fare to the spa. Friendly staff. 

  Theatre

  • Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre (57 Dinh Tien Hoang St, across the street from the shores of the Hoan Kiem Lake, ☎ +84 4 824-9494, fax +84 4 824-5117,  . A visit to the water puppet theater is a real highlight of a trip to Hanoi. Live musicians accompany folk legends from Vietnamese history, told with wooden men, women and dragons, dancing and splashing on the face of the water. The narratives are sung in Vietnamese, but a list of titles is available in several languages. It is more of a visual-musical thing which is universal, just ignore the dialogues and narration but be on the look for special effects. Even in the 21st century, they still elicit an ahhh moment from the audience. Tickets are 60,000 and 100,000 dong. There are several performances throughout the day, and it's even possible to buy tickets even if the showing is going on for 15 minutes. And if you missed the first 15 minutes, be the last to leave and mix in with the incoming audience for the next performance. Camera passes are an extra 15,000 dong, but whether you buy one or not is purely on the honor system. Don't worry about getting wet, but the seats are very small, and visitors with above-average height will have to squirm a bit.

  Cinema

  • Megastar— is on the 6th floor of the Vincom City Towers, 191 Ba Trieu. The tickets range from 60,000-200,000 dong depending on the movie and the show time. The movies are relatively new, perhaps one or two months later than in the U.S. The movies are not dubbed. There are subtitles so both non-Vietnamese speakers and locals can enjoy the movies.
  • August Movie Theater (Rap Thang 8)— is on Hang Bai street, 5 min away from Trang Tien Plaza and the commercial area, such as Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung and Trang Tien streets. 35,000-60,000 dong.

  Gym

If you want to do some mild weight training on a budget, head to 88 Hang Buom st, a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake. The cost is 20,000 dong per session as of November 2009. Locals apparently pay 130,000 dong/month. Be aware, however, that the gym is in very poor condition. The floor is hazardous and no one will spot you whilst benching so ensure your last rep you are able to place the bar back or go with a friend. The front of the gym is full of scooters and the rear wall has pictures of Uncle Ho exercising back in the day! Drinks are 10,000 dong.

  Rock climbing

VietClimb,So 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, ☎ +84 914 548 903 . Hanoi has a climbing gym that opened on April 5, 2011. Opening hours: 2PM-10PM from Tue-Sun. 200 m² climbing surface, a 50 m² café & terrace to chill out, and a climbing pro-shop. Also a great place for finding out where to climb immediately outside of Hanoi.

  Learn

  Cooking classes

Hidden Hanoi, 137 Nghi Tam Rd (aka Duong An Duong Vuong), Tay Ho, (info@hiddenhanoi.com.vn) . Located on the bund road in the Tay Ho district, Hidden Hanoi runs walking tours and cooking classes. There are many options including the 1 hr walking tour of the local market, followed by the 3 hr cooking class. Cooking class menus change daily, and there are other walking tours available. They also run language classes, and there is a dance school in the same building. US$50 per person
Vietnam Culinary School, Hanoi Administration Departments, (hanoiculinaryclass@gmail.com). The Culinary Class has fully equipped facilities to practice Vietnamese cuisine techniques. A typical day will commence with a visit to the morning market. Accompanied by an instructor, you will learn to select and buy Vietnamese ingredients for your personal cooking lesson. The class will be followed by a meal in a delightful restaurant sampling your own cooking as well as traditional Vietnamese dishes.
EZcooking Class, 49 Lane, 49 Huynh Thuc Khang St. 
  • Hanoi Cooking Centre, 44 Chau Long Street (close to Truc Bac lake), +84437150088 . Cooking school, retail outlet and beautiful court yard cafe with an excellent menu of asian and western favourites. Hands-on cooking classes and short courses in a relaxed atmosphere, designed by chef Tracey Lister  

  Buy

  Money Changers

Money changers are usually in most guest houses and banks, and they give bad rates. Don't exchange money from the black market people on the streets. The best place to exchange money is at Ha Trung road and Hang Bac where they give real good rates. Just walk into the gold shops or jewellery shops and ask them if they change money and ask to show their rates. Ask up to nearly 5 or more shops to see which shop gives the best rates. Best rates are at Ha Trung which is 4 to 5 mins walk from hoan kiem lake.

  ATMs

ATMs are everywhere and cash is king here. There is a transaction limit (2,000,000 dong). For a higher transaction limit (4,000,000 dong) try the ANZ and Techcombank. The Techcombank SE of the Hoa Lo Prison allows transactions of at least 7 mil (didn't try more than this, so try starting as high as possible, maybe 20 mil?). Many places will accept USD as well.
Check exchange rates daily. Jewellery shops will consistently offer a better rate than banks or hotels.

  Markets

  • Hang Da. A 6-story building to house the market is currently under construction; all the kiosks are now located in the neighboring area, either on Phung Hung (second-hand clothing), Duong Thanh or Ly Nam De streets. They offer everything that one can think of, from pets, groceries, prepared food to fabric materials.  
  • Cho Hom (the equivalent meaning in English would be Noon Market but the translation is not close), Pho Hue. They offer everything here. What it is famous for is the fabric market on the second floor. There are many kiosks selling different types of fabrics ranging from cheap, affordable to very good quality with a high price. However, please bear in mind that when shopping, take your time. Never rush into buying anything. Sellers often give a very high price that you can bargain down to half or one-third of the original price.  
  • Dong Xuan. Famous for being the market for wholesalers. They have from school supplies, stuffed animals to clothing. It is quite an experience to spend some time in the market observing the sellers and buyers.   
  • Night Market. Usually opens from 7PM, this unique market gathers on a walking street in the old quarter. Has anything from pirated DVD to traditional ornaments. Prices are negotiable but watch out for the "foreigner pricing" which is fairly common.   

  Bookshops

  • Bookworm Hanoi, 44 Chau Long (Hanoi Cooking Center), 043 715 3711, 0912561800 . New and used books.   

  Eat

Since the mid 90s, Vietnamese cuisine has grown in quality and variation, and is now very diverse and most delicious. Most famous remains 'Pho Ga' (chicken noodle soup) or 'Pho Bo'(Beef noodle soup). There are various dishes including chicken, beef, fish and seafood, and there are hundreds, if not thousands, of restaurants nowadays in Hanoi catering to everyone's taste.
In Hanoi, there are hundreds of street restaurants in small kiosks on the sidewalk, with plastic tables and chairs on the pavement. Eating at these restaurants is a great way to experience the local food and culture. It is worth mentioning that food quality, freshness, and hygiene can vary greatly. A bowl of noodle soup goes for 20,000 dong (Jan 2011) and market food stalls offer fruit portions, sausages, donuts, and other eats for 10,000 to 20,000 dong (Jan 2011). Be sure to get your change as a few vendors seem to 'forget' to return it to you, and learn a little Vietnamese because vendors often will not speak any or much English.
The rule of thumb is if the price is expensive, hygiene quality may or may not be OK, but if the price is cheap, definitely hygiene quality is compromised. There seemed to be no regular food Health Department inspector working regularly in the city.
For groceries, there is a large supermarket east of Hoan Kiem Lake (Finimart, 27A Ly Thai To, at Tran Nguyen Han).


  Exotic treats

Next to Beijing, Hanoi is probably the second in the running to the world's exotic food paradise.
The suburb of Le Mat (aka the Snake Village) has numerous restaurants specializing in cobra foodstuffs. Live cobras are stored on the premises much the same way one would find live lobsters at a Western seafood restaurant. If one orders cobra blood wine from the menu, the waiter will take a live cobra, kill it on the spot, drain the blood into a shot glass of rice wine, and top it off with the cobra's still beating heart for you to gulp down! Not for the faint hearted (excuse the pun). Le Mat is about ten minutes across the river from downtown, take bus 10, 15 or 17 and get off at the large "mega-mall" just beyond Gia Lam station, and walk 500 metres down the road at the right of the mall. Cobras are not cheap at around 400,000-1,000,000 dong (USD$50-) but it gets turned into a dozen unique dishes, enough to share between three or four people.
A local delicacy in the Hanoi area is dog meat (thịt chó), which is especially popular in the winter. There are a number of restaurants in the Tay Ho district. Another exotic regional taste is ca cuong, an extract from the belostomatid, or giant water bug. Just a few drops are added to noodles for the unique aroma.
Be sure to check out the boiled duck fetus eggs sold by peddlers almost everywhere priced at 5,000 dong. This delightful experience consists of the vendor cracking the egg in front of you, and peeling the shell and dropping the contents in a plastic micro bowl, then garnished with juliened ginger, basil leaf, and sprinkled with chili sauce. You can see the severed head and beak of your chick that fell off if you are lucky enough to have your first bite from a different spot - Bon Appetit!

  Budget

Look to the Old Quarter for atmospheric street stalls and reasonably priced Western and local fare.
  • Quan Bia Minh (Minh's), 7a Dinh Liet (100 m north of the lake), +84 4 3934 5323. 7:30AM-11:30PM. Popular restaurant with lovely casual upstairs terrace, Minh speaks English well and keeps her staff attentive. Variety of western, vegetarian and Vietnamese food, all reasonably priced.  
  • Bun Cha, 1 Hang Manh, 67 Duong Thanh (corner Hang Non and Hang Manh, Old Quarter(or near Hang Da market)), 01697776666 . 8am-7pm. some rate this as one of the best examples of Bun Cha in Hanoi, and therefore Vietnam (apparently in the south, Bun Cha is specifically advertised as Hanoi-style). For about 80,000 dong each, you'll get a bowl full of tiny pork-mince rissoles that have been char grilled over an open flame, and a massive plate of pork rice paper rolls that have been fried in oil, twice. With this you also get a phenomenal dipping sauce (fish sauce, made from sugar, garlic, peppers usually), a massive plate of greens and herbs, more bun (rice noodle) than you can handle, and a bottle of local beer. It's full of locals and not so many tourists, so you can be assured the experience is authentic. Great food but expect rude service.  
  • Cafe 69, 69 Ma May St (opposite Friendly Hotel). Good place to eat Western food in the heart of the Old Quarter, although some travelers find it expensive and the food inferior quality.   
  • Com Binh Dan, (Hang Bo, several side streets in Old Quarter). often only open during lunch hours (11AM-2PM). these are an excellent way to get an inexpensive, home-cooked Vietnamese meal. The best ones have loyal followings of workers who eat there every day. rice with two or three toppings (which you select from several dishes): 15,000-30,000 dong.   
  • Com Chay Nang Tam Vegetarian Restaurant, 79A Pho Tran Hung Dao (a few streets south of the lake)   . Open for lunch and dinner. This excellent restaurant is your best vegetarian option in town and will please both vegetarians and non-vegetarians with its wide range of innovative dishes, which include fake meat dishes. Restaurant is comfortable with good ambiance, and dishes are value-priced. Well worth the short walk out of the old town. Set dinner with a selection of four dishes, soup, and rice: 50,000+ dong.   
  • Com Chay Au Lac, 277 Ngo Van Chuong (Take Le Duan south, past train tracks, turn into alley after #114). Open every day, 7am-8:30pm. Typical local vegetarian restaurant like you'll find everywhere in Vietnam except Hanoi, located a little off the beaten track in an atmospheric alleyway. 30,000 dong.  
  • DAC KIM, 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, 01697776666 . 8AM-7PM. Try BBQ pork (slice) in soup with vermicelli and lots of vegetables. They serve spring rolls too.  
  • Hebe Cafe, 33, Luong Van Can St (inside Hanoi Youth Hotel - near the Hoan Kiem lake, in the centre of Old Quarter). Cheap local and Western food. breakfasts: US$1; pizza: US$2; hot pot: US$8.   
  • Huy Café & Pizza Inn, 32 Dinh Liet St. large Italian dinner combo (garlic bread, soup/salad, pizza/pasta, drink): 65,000 dong.   
  • Joma Bakery Café (Joma), 22 Ly Quoc Su, & 54 To Ngoc Van (near the Cathedral, & west lake) . 7AM-9PM. Fair-trade certified, organic coffee prepared by some of the best baristas in town. Add to your smooth cappuccino a sweet-smelling cinnamon bun or a much-loved bagel egger. Everything here is homemade and fresh. Excellent breakfast menu and lunch/dinner options, as well as a mouth-watering array of cakes, cookies, pies and other treats. Locations also in Laos, Vientiane and Luang Prabang. 20,000-80,000 dong.  
  • Kem Tràng Tiền, 54 Phố Tràng Tiền. Popular spot for ice cream on a hot day. Beware of motorbikes when entering the establishment, since it is sort of a drive-thru/drive-in ice cream shop. Make sure to try the local cóm or đậu xanh flavors. Also to note that the hygine in the area may be a bit dubious since many toss away their eaten ice cream sticks Ice cream bars 5,000-8,000 dong. Cones are a bit more expensive..  
  • Quan an Ngon aka Delicious, 18 Phan Boi Chau street. Wide range of choices with regards to dishes from everywhere in Vietnam at very reasonable prices. They have limited seating and a large amount of customers so waiting time to be seated would be certain. Fortunately, they have a large seating area so customers do not have to wait long. They serve both lunch and dinner. Their restaurant is decorated culturally and traditionally. 
  • Papa Joe's Coffee, 112 Cau Go, +84 4 926-2544. 8AM-11PM. Despite the name, this is actually a real restaurant, with pasta, soup, salads, sandwiches, and pretty good burgers (vegetarian included); pizzas, to be honest, leave a lot to be desired, though. Drinks and desserts are also on hand. The best reason to eat here, though, is the small balcony with a view over the frantic traffic square and the shores of the Hoan Kiem Lake below. 45,000-65,000 dong
  • Pho, on the corner of Nha Chung and Chan Cam. All of the soups and sides include beef (bo) so this isn't for vegetarians. Large bowl of pho: 12,000 dong; Coke or beer: 3,000 dong.   
  • Pho Tu Lun (Au Trieu), 10 Ly Quoc Su. Many pho varieties 15,000-30,000 dong
  • The Cart Au Trieu, 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (Au Trieu is the street to the right of St Joseph's Cathedral but The Cart is entered via the backdoor so go down the alleyway and take a left.), 04 3928 7715 . 8AM-5PM. Try their pies and pasties. 60,000 VND for a sandwich, 45,000 for an Punto Italia latte
  • The Cart Nghi Tam, 8B, Lane 1 Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho (Follow the road between the back doors of the Sheraton and the Intercontinental till it takes a right and The Cart Nghi Tam is just around the corner.), 0437186967. 7AM-7PM. This one is great for an early breakfast or a takeaway coffee. Their Old School Bacon Baguette with back bacon is a rarity in Hanoi. Try the meat and potato pie or the veggie cheese, onion and potato pasty. 60,000 VND for a sandwich, 45,000 for a Punto Italia latte.  
  • Sen (Lotus), #10, lane 431, Au Co Rd, Tay Ho district (right next to the Water Park). Buffet style restaurant. They also have a very wide range of dishes from many regions in the country. The dishes are divided into stations where customers can order noodles, rice cakes or rice vermicelli. Serves both lunch and dinner. Their new restaurant looks Westernized, compared with their old thatched restaurants.  
  • “Banh it” – sticky rice cake, (It is true that “Banh it” is a must try specialty of the Central Region in Vietnam!). Served for lunch and dinner. Commonly, there are two kinds of “Banh it”. The first one is “Banh it la gai”, which is sticky rice cake with coconut or green bean stuffing wrapped in pinnate leaf. The second one is “Banh it tom thit” – glutinous rice cake with meat and shrimp, its name means “little meat shrimp cakes”, the stuffing is made of ground pork and shrimp mixed with spring onion and other spices.  

  Mid-range

  • Cam Chan Quan, 108 K1 Giang Vo St, +84 12 3259 7696. This eatery has staff that speaks English, Chinese and Vietnamese that would be able to help you speak to the cab drivers to bring you to them. They serve asian fare, with a closer touch to the singapore cusines. It's one place where good clean toilet is expected, with free wifi. Try their noodles, its not the usual pho you see around the place, but a more typical noodle you will see in Singapore. Try the Beggar's chicken, Savioury Fried eggplants, Chinese rice wine Hotpot Soup. Bowl of noodles: 65,000 dong.  
  • Cha Ca La Vong, 14 Cha Ca St & 107 Nguyen Truong To St. This establishment is so famous, the street is named after it, instead of the other way around. There's only one dish on the (Vietnamese-only) menu, fried fish in grease, but they've been serving it now for five generations. They traditional shrimp paste is now an optional extra. If you really love fish and shrimp, this experience might be for you. 150,000 dong for a small portion, 1,000 dong charge per napkin.   
  • Ciao Cafe, 2 Hang Bai St. Cosy place for coffee and cake and it is not full of cigarette smoke unlike other cafes in Hanoi.  
  • Daluva Wine | Tapas | Events, 33 To Ngoc Van St, Tay Ho (West Lake), +84 4 3718 5831 or +84 907 144 561 . 8AM till late. Wine and Tapas Bar/Restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The food caters for all tastes including vegetarians and kids. Ranging from small tapas plates to main courses of hearty Western and Asian fare. It's a modern place and well decorated with great well trained staff and easy music on your ears. The 3rd floor has a Children's play room with free supervision as well as a Children's menu. The place is a favourite with local expats in the area.  
  • Huyen Houng Restaurant, 20 Bao Khanh, Hanoi, +84 4 8288430. Choose from a wide variety of seafood dishes (many of which are swimming around in tanks) and other Vietnamese specialities. Friendly staff complement the tasty food. 80,000-120,000 dong for a meal and drink.  
  • Huong Ly, Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi. Very close to the Melia Hotel, this is a fantastic bar / restaurant on the ground floor and top floor of a building. Randomly the middle floor is a clothes shop. Fantastic food, serving anything from traditional noodles to salmon steak, beautifully presented and delicious. Friendly staff too. 55,000-120,000 dong for a main course.  
  • Kaiser Kaffee Restaurant, 34A Ba Trieu. Interesting little place which has excellent Vietnamese and Western food.   
  • La Salsa, ('in Nha Tho St near the church in Old Town - just across the street from Moka Cafe). French food and ex-pat hang-out.  
  • Little Hanoi, 21 Pho Hang Gai, +84 4 928 5333. Upscale cafe serving mainly Westerners in a pleasantly lit restaurant.   
  • Mediteraneo, (Nha Tho St, between La Salsa and Paris Deli). offers authentic Italian food - probably the best you'll get in Hanoi. Prices are however steep and portions small.  
  • Moka Café, (In Nha Tho St close to the cathedral). Excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese food served in a coffee shop environment.  
  • Paris Deli, (Nha Tho St across from Moka Cafe). Offers delicious European fare for hearty appetites. 
  • Pepperoni's, (near the Hang Gai end of Nha Chung). Part of a small international chain of pizza restaurants. Locally run, they do regular special offers such as free desserts, eat-all-you-can buffets and loyalty schemes, whereby collecting tokens with each take-out entitles you to a free pizza. Pizzas, burgers, ice cream, and apple crumble. Pizzas: 65,000+ dong
  • Tamarind Café, Ma May 80 (Old Quarter), +84 4 926-0580 . Has a menu full of inventive vegetarian dishes, lots of fresh juices, and a relaxed, stylish interior. Don't come here if you're hungry though, as the portions aren't very big and it's a tad pricey.   
  • Paradieso Restaurant, 7 Nguyen Sieu (Old Quarter), +84 4 39974861 . Small and warmly restaurant with both local Vietnamese and Western food, good quality and affordable price. You can have Vietnam traditional food: Cha Ca, Bun Cha, Pho, Nem (spring rolls), also can have very good crepes. All very good quality and nice decor.  
  • Tan My Design Cafe, 61 Hang Gai, +84 4 3938-1451 . One of the Hanoi's best for boutique fashion where you can also get nice Asian and Western foods in the cozy ambiance  
  • Luala Cafe, 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3936 9899 . Luala Cafe is a cafe and restaurant inside the Luala Store, a luxury fashing concept store located in the shopping district of Hanoi. The restaurant offers a variety of gourmet foods, drinks and desserts  

  Splurge

  • Pots 'n Pans Restaurant, 57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, Hai Ba Trung District, Hanoi (Follow Ba Trieu Street south from Hoan Kiem Lake 5 mins), +84 4 39 4402 04 (, fax: +84 4 39 44 65 99). From 11.30AM-late. Innovative Vietnamese cuisine infused with international flair. A fine-dining restaurant & lounge bar brought to you by a group of former street and disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO Training Program now rising stars of the Vietnamese food scene. Happy Hour 7 days from 5pm - 7pm.  
  • Don's Bistro, 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Ha Noi, +84 4 3719 2460 (, fax: +84 4 3719 5998) . From 8AM-11. Multi-concept establishment serving classic and innovative international cuisine, including Vietnamese favorites, in a variety of indoor and outdoor settings. With unparalleled views and eclectic music selections, don's is a destination in itself for dining, leisure, business and entertainment. The focus is on local produce, quality imports, and the utmost in service standards, while catering to a very diverse clientele. Don's houses a signature fine dining restaurant with a cigar den, wine cellar and rotating art gallery as well as a rooftop Skyline Oyster Bar featuring live oysters and live nightly music. The first floor is geared for more casual dining, serving pho, cocktails, coffee, fresh baked goods, wood fire pizzas, shisha and more.  
  • Green Tangerine, 48 Hang Be (A few steps away from busy Hang Be St), 84 4 825-1286. Excellent French restaurant offering rich and delicious French fare with both an a la carte selection and a set menu. Popular with expats.   
  • La Restaurant & Bar, 25 Ly Quoc Su, +84 4 9288933, +84 913221971. Situated near St. Joseph's Cathedral in Hanoi's old quarter, this elegant, air-conditioned restaurant has a choice of delicious Western and Vietnamese dishes. While the selection of vegetarian dishes is somewhat restricted, the food is excellent, if pricey by Hanoi standards. La will definitely satisfy longings for quality food after weeks of eating on the street. Think Parisian bistro meets fine dining Asian. 300,000 dong for a meal and drinks.  
  • Restaurant Bobby Chinn, 77 Xuan Dieu St, Tay Ho,, +84 4 3718 5988. An amazing restaurant with the trademark green pea pods as the logo. Without a doubt one of the more hip dining experiences of Hanoi. The interior alone is worth a look, while the menu is delightfully eclectic.   
  • Restaurant at Bamboo Hotel, 32,Hang Be. Why risk street food when this cosy, friendly and clean place offers good food, ambience, and at prices cheaper than in Malaysia and Thailand ? After your experience with street food, you will be coming here everyday. We went lunch and dinner as well almost everyday except when away for day trips out of the city. Menu is in English and English is fluently spoken.
  • Pane e Vino Italian Restaurant and Wine Shop, 3 Nguyen Khac Can & 98 Hang Trong (100 m away from Hoan Kiem Lake), +84 4 3826 9080, +84 4 3928 6329. Fully A/C. Serves a wide range of traditional regional Italian dishes with strictly controlled quality of ingredients. An extensive wine list with many choices of Imported Italian wines from Veneto, Tuscany, Puglia, Sicilia and Piemont. Friendly service with smiling and fluent speaking English waiter and waitress. A great place to relax and get recover after a long walking and shopping day. Drop in for a chat and a complimentary digestivo with the manager.   
  • Saigon Restaurant at InterContinental Hanoi Westlake. The freshest blend of Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine. The restaurant features contemporary Asian design, dramatic glass-fronted kitchens and inspiring views of the city’s ever-changing skyline.   
  • Sofitel Metropole - Chocolate Buffett. daily 3PM-5:30PM. All you can eat chocolate. The chocolate is of a very high quality and includes a chocolate fountain and chocolate ice cream as well as a variety of freshly-made "Belgian" style chocolates. Buffett: US$20; Pot of tea: US$4.  
  • Sofitel Metropole - Sunday Brunch. Su noon-3PM. Innovative and unconventional cooking. 40 m of buffet with everything your heart can desire, from sushi to carvery, from fresh french oysters to homemade ice cream - you name it - they've got it. Among the highlights are a 3 story chocolate buffet with a chocolate fountain and the goose liver creme brulee. US$80.  
  • Insect food, Khuong Thuong village,. The most special cuisines at his restaurant are those processed from ant-eggs, in the styles of Thai people or Muong and Tay ethnic people in Vietnam.   
  • Press Club, 59 A Ly Thai To St., +84 4 3934-0888 (, fax: +84 4 3934-0899). Fine dining with western cuisine and a good selection of wines. 70 seat restaurant, private wine room for 12 and another cosy private room for 4. A combination of old and contemporary features with a classically trained executive chef. 

  Drink

Bia Hơi is abundant in the streets of the Old Quarter. At the crossing of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen five separate venues fill up with travellers in the evenings, but you can get more local atmosphere on some of the side streets.
Hanoi is a lively city on the weekends, but the Old Quarter closes relatively early (at midnight) on weekdays, so you might want to start your night early. Other places outside the Old Quarter stay open later and vary in closing times.
Local young people gather around the cathedral located in Ly Quoc Su to have lemon ice tea (Tra Chanh) and sunflower seeds in street bars. After dark it gets quite crowded. Tra Chanh: 8,000 to 10,000 dong.
Sit on a plastic chair in front of one of the Bia Hoi (fresh beer) establishments which are invariably situated on the corners of many of Hanoi's 'Old Quarter' streets. This preservative-free light beer is the perfect drink to sip as you watch the city's frenetic life bustle by. The beer costs less than twenty cents and gives you an excuse to relax and take photos of the passing local characters. Should not be missed. Moreover, once you reach the Old Quarter, you will find that almost every corner is filled with stalls selling Pho (Vietnamese noodle) and cafe (the name is not limited only to coffee, but also tea, sweets and grocery items, and yes, even to Pho!).
On Tô Tich, a small street connecting Hang Quat and Hang Gai, you can help yourself to a refreshing fruit milkshake (sinh tố) at one of the stalls (~7000 dong).
  • Highlands Coffee, (opposite KFC) . Located on 3rd floor in a ship shaped 5 storey building overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake and Vietnam's "Piccadilly Circus". Great spot to relax in scenic location where you can watch all the traffic and pedestrians go about their business below you along their outside balcony or stay inside their comfy air-conditioned interior. They also serve food and beer. 45,000 vnd

  Bars

  • Pots 'n Pans Lounge Bar, 57 Bui Thi Xuan Street, Hai Ba Trung District, Hanoi (Follow Ba Trieu Street south from Hoan Kiem Lake 5 mins), +84 4 39 4402 04 (, fax: +84 4 39 44 65 99) . From 11.30AM-late. Innovative Vietnamese cuisine infused with international flair. A great bar and lounge brought to you by a group of former street and disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO Training Program. with a great bar menu, open from 11.30am until late. Happy Hour 7 days from 5pm - 7pm.  
  • Green Lake (Ho Guom Xanh), 32 Le Thai To. A crowded bar with weekly performances by popular local singers. A place for the definitive Vietnamese entertainment scene. Has an 80,000 dong cover charge on the weekends. Seems to combine part live singing with drag performances and a host club. 
  • Tet Bar, (on the northern end of Ta Hien). A small bar formerly known as Le Maquis. It's more like a loud rock music binge and smoke pub than a stylish lounge, but there's usually a happy crowd until late and the place has an authentic feel.   
  • Mao's Red Lounge, 30 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem (down the street from Tet and Cheeky Quarter). Small, but lively bar in the heart of the Old Quarter. Has two levels, the top floor which is usually packed with Westerners smoking loads of cigarettes. Mao himself is usually in presence, playing all kinds of music from his iPod. Extremely friendly dude who will strike up a conversation with anyone willing to listen. Daily specials, and LaRue for about 20,000 dong.   
  • Minh's Jazz Club, 92 Tran Vu (on the south side of Truc Bach Lake) . This longtime institution of the Hanoi music scene has recently moved (Oct 2010) to an area outside the Old Quarter. The new location is much smaller than the previous location, but is still run by the same Mr. Quyen Van Minh. It is now attached to the MaLai Deli and Red Arecas Restaurant. Drink options are still available, but food will have to be sourced from one of the two adjoining restaurants.   
  • Nola, 89 Ma May str (located in the heart of the old quarter), (). 7PM-11PM. a communal spot with friendly services. three floors are three beautiful views and comfortable place. put your bag anywhere then you can have a rest.   
  • Seventeen Cowboys, 98B Tran Hung Dao. Due to a licensing agreement finishing, this is no longer known as "Seventeen Saloon", though the format is largely unchanged. Nightly live cover band, a multitude of provocatively dressed waitstaff, and somewhat expensive drinks.   
  • Student Bar, left of the St. Joseph Cathedral's Entrance (West of Hoan Kiem Lake). A nice little bar for cheap and good fruit shakes. As the name suggests, very young audience, that sits each night on ridiculous amounts of little chairs on the sidewalks, taking their fruit shakes.   
  • Sunset Bar - InterContinental Hanoi Westlake, 1A Nghi Tam, (84-4)62708888. Dramatically positioned on its own island in West Lake and reached in the evenings by a stroll along a torch-lit bridge, Sunset Bar’s tropical Asian ambiance and stunning sunset views over the lake afford guests a sanctuary from which to escape the bustle of downtown Hanoi.   

  Sleep

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Hanoi hotel scams
Be aware information about a hotel from a tout may in fact be different from what the hotel offers, their policy, etc. If ever in doubt, speak with a direct staff member of the hotel.
It may be wise to verify the conditions of "free" products the hotel may offer or even go as far to take pictures of the room or mini bar should proof ever be needed. If ever unsure whether something is complimentary or not, check before partaking of the product or service.
If during your stay a hotel finds a reason to move you to a different hotel, insist they provide proof their claims are legitimate and if they are asking you move to a higher-priced hotel, make sure they have an agreement with the new hotel to pay the difference in price or other arrangements which all parties find suitable.

  Budget

The Old Quarter is littered with guesthouses and hostels catering for budget travellers. A venue down an alley will not have the constant traffic noise, but check for construction work happening next door, it can wake you up just as early. If you leave food in your room keep it covered/sealed, poor hygiene in the neighbourhood can bring rodents through the smallest of holes in search of sustenance.
  • Hanoi Emperor Hotel, No 16 Hang Buom St, Hoan Kiem, (), . Twin, Double rates start at $15 per room, breakfast incl. while Triple bedded and Squad Room rates start at $ 20 usd per room. Free internet is available with 2 computers in the lobby, free Wifi within the building. Staff are friendly and helpful. Since the hotel has only 14 rooms book in advance if you can.   
  • Hanoi Triumphal Hotel, 4 Hang Ga str, Hoan Kiem dist (10 minutes walk from Hoan Kiem Lake and within easy access of Noi Bai Airport), +844 62700937 . Hanoi Triumphal Hotel in Hanoi, Vietnam. All rooms equipped with Air-conditioning, TV, telephone, Sofa, desk, Shower and toilet with bathroom amenities. Some of its facilities and services are Restaurant, bar, Room service, 24-hour front desk, concierge, Laundry/dry cleaning, Spa and wellness center. Rates start at 20.00 USD.  
  • Victor Hotel, 24C Lý Quốc Sư (10 minutes walk from Hoan Kiem Lake). Dorms have AC, free computer use, breakfast can be added for $1. Are also double rooms upstairs, going rates unknown. Dorms for $4.  
  • Little Hanoi Hostel, 48 Hang Ga street, Hoan Kiem, 844 38284461 (). Newly renovated and located in the old quarter of Hanoi, close to popular attractions such as the water puppet show and Hoan Kiem Lake. Rooms are clean and furnished with air conditioning, TV, sofa chairs, a mini-bar, a dresser, and a bathroom with hot and cold taps and a bath tub; rates start at $22. High-speed wi-fi internet connection is available as well. The English speaking staff is friendly and knowledgeable, and can help you book tours to Halong bay, Hoa Lu Tam, Sapa Bac Ha, Ba Be Lake, Mai Chau Hoa Binh, and tourist spots around the city.  
  • The World Hotel (David Guest House and Travel Agency), 16 Thanh Ha St, Hoan Kiem (near the night market), +84 4 66700300 . In the old quater, every room has A.C, TV and a fridge. Free breakfast every morning and free tea, coffee or lemon juice all day. Rooms are cleaned every day and the staff are very friendly and helpful. Tours are available. There is also free WiFi in the lobby and some computers you can use to access the internet. US$10-12
  • Hanoi Rendezvous Hotel, No 31 Hang Dieu St, Hoan Kiem (In the Old Quarter), +84 4 3828 5777 () . Boutique Hotel/Hostel run by an Australian couple. Private En-suite rooms and Shared rooms. A/C cable LCD televisions. Member of Hostelling International. Fully informed and equipped travel service for all destinations in Vietnam. Friendly English speaking staff. Free beer and Spring Rolls on Thursday nights. Laundry service. Good music in cafe. Free internet PCs with Skype and free WiFi in rooms. US$7.50-35. Full breakfast included in all rates.  
  • Green Hanoi Backpackers Hostel (info@greenhanoibackpackershostel.com), 39D, Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem (15 min by walk from train station and 5 min from Hoan Kiem Lake), +84 4 3938 1650 . checkin: 2pm; checkout: 12 noon. Only one year old but a crazy good and friendly staff. Dorms for US$4 without breakfast. 4 bed dorms available for private use. Free Wifi. It also offers cheap tours to interesting places such as Sapa and Halong Bay. US$4.  
  • Camellia Hotel 5, 81 Thuoc Bac St (about 10 min walk from Hoan Kiem lake), +84 4 828 2376, +84 4 828 3128 (, fax: +84 4 828 2404),  . checkout: 12noon. Small hotel on the heart of Old Quarter. Clean rooms and baths with good air-con, sat TV, free internet and breakfast. Friendly English speaking staff. US$14-16.  
  • Especen Hotel, 28-38 Tho Xuong & 41 Ngo Huyen Sts, Hoan Kiem (30 m from St. Joseph's Church (Cathedral) on a quiet alley off of Au Trieu St), +84 4 3824 4401 (, fax: +84 4 3825 9460) . checkin: noon; checkout: noon. Rooms are new, clean, bright, quiet, friendly staff. Single US$17, double US$19.  
  • Friendly Hotel, 68 Ma May St, Hoan Kiem (opposite Cafe 69 and ANZ bank ATM), +84 4 3926 2464 () . Mini hotel with quiet rooms. Rooms have en-suite,A/C, wifi and/or cable internet, cable TV and fridge. Free filtered water, refill your water bottle. *This places is extremely loud at night, due to a nearby club. The bathrooms were dirty and the blankets were filthy. They also attempted to pull a "mini-bar" scam, but the fridge wasn't even plugged in. US$10-15
  • Hanoi Backpackers' Hostel, 48 Ngo Huyen St, Hoan Kiem (One block north of St Joseph's Cathedral. Signposted from there.), +84 4 828 5372 () . checkin: 24 hr; checkout: 24 hr. Run by two Australians who have lived there for many years. Clean A/C rooms (including female-only dorms plus double rooms), powerful and hot showers, tri-weekly BBQs on the rooftop, free wifi and excellent staff who are always available to help. All dorm beds have a large personal locker (no extra fee), shelf and nightlight. Part of the Hostelling International association, so valid card-holders will get a discount. Quite popular during high season, recommended to book accommodation in advance. This accommodation is especially for "Party only" tourists, the Hostel own Halong Bay Tour is 50%based on drinking games, so watch out and consider if you like that or not Dorm US$7.50, double US$30, breakfast included.  
  • Hanoi Central Backpacker's, 16 Ly Quoc Su and 45A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem (Directly opposite the church / Half a block north of the church on Ly Quic Su, in the alley next to June fashion), +84 4 3948 1508 . checkin: 24 hr; checkout: Noon. Local friendly staff. Free internet. Some guests report questionable hygiene. Free beer every night, seriously. 16-bed dorm US$5, double US$29, breakfast included.  
  • Hanoi Centre Ville Hotel, No 47 Luong Ngoc Quyen St, Hoan Kiem (In the heart of the Old Quarter), +84 4 38 26 84 59 () . checkin: 08.00 hr; checkout: 12.00 hr. Almost right across from the Amazon bar and very close to other late-night pubs (20 meters from the international corner of Bia Hoi). The rooms are spacious. Is is safe and newly renovated. Some rooms have wardrobes. The floors are hard tiled and very clean, no sticky carpet. There is an LCD TV, refrigerator- some art motifs add touch. Also a heater/air conditioner (the hot water 24h ); ironing boards, hair-dryers; WiFi throughout; free internet computers in the lobby and a wolderful breakfast. (Be away, like most hotels in this area, they lock the doors late. The staff is very friendly. But for English (or French) and negotiating, you need to ask for Tuan: pronounced (Tw ‘an) or (2 on). He is a floating manager who can be easily summoned. He can make you a deal according to your stay. He is a very knowledgeable concierge. US $12-25. Book in advance if you can. Room US$12- double US$25, breakfast included
  • Hanoi Guesthouse, 14 Bat Su St (located in historic Old Quater), +84 4 3824 5732 () . A small hotel very popular with backpackers. Friendly and reliable staff. All rooms A/C with ensuite toilet and shower. Double US22, including breakfast.  
  • Hanoi Guesthouse 2, 43 Ly Thai To St (Old Quarter), +84 4 3935 1091 () . Opened 2010, twin of Hanoi guesthouse. Friendly and reliable staff. All rooms A/C with ensuite toilet and shower. Twin US$24, including breakfast.   
  • Hanoi Youth Hostel, 5 Luong Ngoc Quyen - Hoan Kiem (in the Hanoi Old Quarter close to Hoan Kiem Lake (just a 2 minute walk)), +84 9 7858 6555, . 17 rooms and dormitory with city view, A/C, sat TV, telephone, mini-bar, en-suite bathroom with bath-tub and shower. Relaxation room on the 1st floor complete with a pool table, a darts board and a library. Free wifi, free beer, free tea, free coffee, free breakfast. Dorm bed US$4.5-6, private room US$15-30.  
  • Camel City Hotel (former Indochina Queen), No. 8/50 Dao Duy Tu Lane (between Dao Duy Tu and Ta Hien Sts), +84 4 3935 2024. checkin: anytime; checkout: noon. Very centrally located slightly to the north of Hoan Kiem Lake has huge rooms to suit different budgets. All rooms come with hot water, sat TV and free breakfast. Since it's tucked away in an alley, it's much quieter than most other hotels that are situated right on the main streets. US$17-20.  
  • Kangaroo Hotel, Hang Luoc St 71 (about 10 min walk from Hoan Kiem lake), +84 4 825 8044 (). checkout: noon. Small hotel in the Old Quarter. The rooms have comfortable beds, good hot water pressure for showers and air-con/fan combos. Amenities include sat TV, free internet and bathtub. Helpful staff with good English. From US$4.   
  • Little Hanoi Hotel, 60 Au Trieu St, Hoan Kiem (just north west of the lake in the old quarter), +84 4 3938 8648 (). Comfortable, modern, clean A/C rooms and dorms. Doubles US$20, dorm bed US$6, breakfast and internet included.  
  • Mai Dza Hotel, 52 Yen Phu St, Tay Ho, +84 4 3715 2222 (, fax: +84 4 37152815) . checkin: 6PM; checkout: noon. 50 rooms with 3 star standard. All the rooms are spacious with the area from 30 m²-40 m² fully equipped with modern facilities: in-room IDD telephone, wifi, cableTV, safe box, air conditioner, fridge. The rooms are bright and fresh with big windows and balconies. Guests from here can admire romantic beauty of West Lake and Red River.  
  • Old Quarter Hostel, 91 Hang Ma (Just a few minutes by walk to Dong Xuan Market), +84 9 0229 1886 (). Clean, spacious and secure rooms. Staff are incredibly helpful. Free internet and breakfast. Dorm bed US$6, single US$10-15.  
  • Hanoi International Hostel, 24 Tho Xuong (Old Quarter - 2 min walk from the N side of Hoan Kiem Lake), +84 4 3826 1212 (, fax: +84 4 3824 6010). This guesthouse has basic but cheap rooms with a fan, hot showers and optional A/C; there's a steep climb up to all the rooms but they'll help with your bags for a tip. There is no housekeeping service in the sense that rooms won't be cleaned while you're occupying them. Helpful and friendly staff; "free" internet access on the ground floor (the fine print limits this to 15 min/day). The café offers cheap food; they run a cheap and fair travel agency downstairs that doesn't try to rip you off; bicycles and motorbikes for rent. Keep an eye out for construction on Tho Xuong. Dorm bed US$3-6, discounts for long-term guests.   
  • New Spark Hotel  , Hang Thung,Old Quarter. A cosy, squeaky clean place with elevator. Service and helpfulness is beyond description. Rooms are as what you will find in expensive hotels with all the creature comforts. Breakfast menu includes choice of western or noodles with coffee/tea, fruits, toasts etc. and a very pleasant helpful English speaking young lady to attend to your every need. Almost all the staff are very well-mannered, who go out of the way to pamper you. And almost everyone of them speak English.Free broadband (fast)internet at the lobby, wifi in rooms although a wee bit slow . You can safely book your tours and train tickets with them. Generally honest people. And if off-season they will discount the rooms. In sept 2011, triples with breakfast was only USD17-50, with a caveat (booked 8 months ahead).
  • Stars Hotel, 26 Bat Su (Old Quarter), +84 4 3828 1911, +84 4 3828 1912 (). Clean rooms with bathroom. Breakfast available. Just a few min by walk to Dong Xuan Market and Hoan Kiam Lake. Free internet available in some rooms and also at dining room at ground level. US$15-28.  
  • Tonkin Hotel. checkin: 2PM; checkout: 12 noon. Run by a Vietnamese family with 10 years experience. The rooms are furnished with traditional decor and Asian accents. The rooms are very clean with amazing air conditioning and sat TV. Also, the hotel is very quiet blocking out noises from the street. Single US$15, double US$20

  Mid-range

  • Serenade Hotel, 58 Hang Dao St, Hoan Kiem District, +84 4 3928 6666 . Deluxe double, junior twin, city view and Serenade suite, all have A/C, free internet and mini-bar. Restaurant, bar, room service and sauna massage. From US$ 55.  
  • Lucky Hotel Hanoi, 12 Hang Trong str, Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem District, +84 43825 1029 . , with 20 rooms, all clean and spacious. Staffs skillful with good English speaking and courteous. Walking distance to Hoan Kiem lake. Equipped with Mini-bar/refrigerator, LCD cableTV and A/C. Free internet access and WiFi, Restaurant and 24 hr room service. From USD 35.  edit
  • Lucky 2 Hotel Hanoi, 46 Hang Hom str, Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem District, +84 43928 8170. , with 22 rooms, all clean and spacious. English speaking and courteous staff. 5 min walking to Hoan Kiem lake. Mini-bar/refrigerator, LCD cableTV , A/C. Free internet access and WiFi, Restaurant and 24 hr room service. From USD 35.   
  • Lucky 3 Hotel Hanoi, 81 Hang Bong str, Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem District, +84 43938 1988 . , New open from 2011 with 35 modern rooms, all clean and spacious. Staffs skillful with good English speaking and courteous. 5 min walking to Hoan Kiem lake. Mini-bar/refrigerator, LCD cableTV , A/C. Free internet access and WiFi, Restaurant and 24 hr room service. From USD 35.  
  • Hanoi Value Hotel, 90B Nguyen Huu Huan str, Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem District, 84 439264537-38 . Superior, deluxe and family room, all equipped with Mini-bar/refrigerator, LCD cableTV , A/C. Free internet access and WiFi, Restaurant and 24 hr room service. From USD 41.60.   
  • Continental Hotel, 24, Hang Vai, Hoan Kiem . Boutique-style hotel which has clean and spacious rooms. Courteous staff, walking distance to Hoan Kiem Late. Single US$24, double US$28, breakfast included.  
  • Davula Home, 33, To Ngoc Van St, Tay Ho District (Hanoi Bus #41 to Xuan Dieu Street terminal. Walk down To Ngoc Van St), +84 4 3718 5831 (),  . 1-bedroom boutique serviced apartment. Bright and spacious, cozy lighting, bedroom & living room DVD/LCD-TVs, work desk with computer & free internet, terrace with plants, views of Westlake villas. Great walks along the lake. Family friendly. On-site restaurant 8AM-11PM, tour arrangements, auto/motorbike rental and spa advice available. Single US$79-435, breakfast included.  
  • Duc Thai Hotel, 95B Hang Ga St, Hoan Kiem (Nearby Hoan Kiem lake and night market), +84 9 1255 0388 . checkin: 24 hr. * Elegance Hotel Hanoi, No 85 Ma May St & No 8 Hang Bac St, +84 4 926 3451 (fax: +84 4 926 3452) . In a street in the Old Quarter that thanks to a curb doesn't see as much through-traffic and thus is quieter than most. The newly built boutique hotel offers luxury accommodation in elegant settings with modern facilities & amenities served by professional staff. TV, fan, A/C, hot shower, bathtub or jacuzzi and optional breakfast. In-room computer with internet access is included. Friendly staff. US$28-70.   US$28-70.   
  • Grand View Hotel, no 50 Hang Be-Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3926 0084 (). Located in the Old Quarter. Rooms come with satellite LCD TV, individually controlled A/C, desk, personal safes, mini-bar, tea and coffee maker, bathroom with shower massage, bathtub, daily buffet breakfast served in the hotel’s restaurant. Cot and iron available upon request, Bicycle rental is available. Parking is available for guests who arrived with their own transportation. Baby sitting services are available. 24 hr front desk, luggage storage and fax services. From US$60-135, buffet breakfast included.  
  • Hanoi A1 Hotel, No. 1, Cau Go St, Hoan Kiem (near the famous Hoan Kiem Lake. It is just a 2 min walk from the Water Puppet Theatre and a 3 hr drive to other well-known attractions in the city), +84 4 3926 4512. Rooms equipped with A/C, cableTV, DVD player, Internet, private toilet and bath. Business centre, restaurant, room service, airport transfer and car rental. BEWARE-SCAM The room safes are not safe at all. Hotel staff steal out of the room safe. So do not leave anything inside. From US$35
  • Hanoi Boutique Hotel, Hanoi Old Quarter, Hang Buom Ward, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3929 0366. In the old quarter, 7 min to Hoan Kiem Lake and Water Puppet Theatre. From
  • The Hanoi Club Hotel, 76 Yen Phu St, Ho Tay (Close to Sofitel Plaza, just at the banks of West Lake), +84 4 3823 8115 (). A recreational club with 75 hotel rooms. Tennis courts, squash courts, fully equipped gym, 25 m length pool, 48 bays golf driving range, Chinese restaurant, lounge, and cafe. Very peaceful with hardly any sounds of traffic. Rooms are modern looking with some rooms facing the lake. Complimentary WiFi in rooms. From US$85++.  
  • Hanoi Eclipse Hotel, No 24 Hang Quat St, Hoan Kiem, +84 43 824 3423 (, fax: +84 43 824 6144). Newly built modern boutique hotel which has very clean and spacious rooms. Friendly staff can speak English. US$30-55.  
  • Hanoi Emotion Hotel, 26 Hang Bot St, Hoan Kiem (just next to Temple of Literature), +84 4 384 898 48 (Email: info@hanoi-emotion.com). A newly opened 3-star hotel, a few minutes walk to One Pillar Pagoda and Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. Large bathroom and welcoming fruit basket,rooftop restaurant and bar with city view. The hotel is especially good for business travel as the surrounding is very quiet while accessing other business areas is easy. From US$49.  
  • Hanoi Eternity Hotel, 32 Yet Kieu St, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3941 2262 (). checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. Business boutique hotel with 28 rooms, just next to Hanoi Train Station. Large bathroom and welcoming fruit basket, sound-proof windows. US$45+.  
  • Hanoi Newday Hotel, 31 Hang Dieu St, Hoan Kiem (Nearby Hoan Kiem Lake and night market), +84 4 3456 7890. checkin: 24 hr. $US30 nett price.
  • Hanoi Pacific Star Hotel, 32 Cuanam St, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3936 4520 (). A short walk from the Old Quarter, with bright and spacious rooms. Breakfast, free wired internet in each of the rooms, a bar, and room service are available. US$30 double, includes breakfast.  
  • Hanoi Rose Hotel, 59B Duong Thanh St, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3938-1826. Non-smoking and A/C rooms, all equipped with LCD TV and CD player, mini-bar, and coffee/tea maker. Bar and restaurant, airport and city transfer, fitness room/gym, spa, massage services, and internet access. Rates on official website start at US$27.5
  • Hanoi Royal Palace Hotel, No 18A Quan Su str, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3938 1763 (, fax: +84 4 3938 1765). In the Old Quarter. Doesn't see much through-traffic and thus is quieter than most. Newly built boutique hotel with modern facilities and professional staff. TV, fan, A/C, hot shower, bathtub or jacuzzi and optional breakfast. In-room computer with internet is included. US$40-85.  
  • Hanoi View 2 Hotel, 48 Ngo Si Lien Alley, Dong Da District, +84 4 62679888. Deluxe, standard, superior and junior suite rooms with A/C, cableTV and internet. Restaurant, sauna, travel agency and massage service are available.  
  • Jospeh's Hotel, 5 Au Trieu (just behind Joseph's Cathedral near Hoan Kiem Lake.), (). 10 room, western-managed boutique hotel. Some rooms have a large window. Rainshower, plasmaTV with cable, wifi, minibar and coffee/tea making facilities. Many rooms have a balcony and there is also a lift. Comfortable beds, spotless rooms, tasteful artwork and an included breakfast. US$45-55
  • Indochina Queen II Hotel, 67-Pho Thuoc Bac St, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3923 3993, +84 4 3923 3996 (, fax: +84 4 3923 3966). New hotel, rooms with flat satelliteTV, A/C, safebox, tea&coffee maker, and en-suite bathrooms. An on-site restaurant serves breakfast, bar, carpark, bicycle rental, and babysitting are available. 
  • Khanh Sinh Hotel, 95 Hang Chieu, Hanoi Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3938 2014. Comfortable rooms, A/C, cableTV, and well stocked mini-bar. Airport transfer, currency exchange, restaurant, and car rental. From US$30
  • Kings Cross Linh Dung Uyen Hotel, 3 Tong Duy Tan St, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 2215 8030 (). Not far way from Hanoi’s business district. The hotel is the tallest building in its area. Guest elevator, meeting facilities, business centre, 24 hr security camera system on public areas available. All rooms and apartments offer views over the city. US$31 double, includes breakfast.  
  • Ocean Stars 2 Hotel, 10 Ngo Dao Duy Tu Ln, Hoan Kiem (this hotel is not located on Dao Duy Tu St, instead on Ngo Dao Duy Tu. Look for the alley at 52 Dao Duy Tu St.), +84 4 828 1711 (, fax: +84 4 9263745). Located in the Old Quarter. 25 rooms with hot water, private bathrooms, and fan or A/C. Fridge, satTV, telephone access, internet in the rooms and the lobby. US$16-30
  • Phoenix Hanoi Hotel (formerly Ocean Star Hotel - and one with a scam warning), 43 Bat Su St (Hoan Kiem district, Old Quarter), (, fax: +84 4 9263745). The 30 rooms with hot water, private bathrooms, and fan or A/C. There is also a fridge, satTV, telephone access, free internet in the rooms and lobby. Some of the rooms have a desktop computer. US$11+.   
  • New Century Hotel, 12 Cha Ca St, Hoan Kiem, +84 4 3824 4005. checkout: noon. New opened hotel with spacious, clean rooms and a friendly owner. Rooms have TV, computer, bathtub and internet. US$18-22.  
  • ThaiSon Hotel, No 7-9 HangVoi, HoanKiem (nearby Hoan Kiem Lake), +84 4 3935 1666, +84 4 3935 1612 (, fax: +84 4 39351611), . Boutique-style hotel with clean and spacious rooms. Hotel staff is courteous, friendly and warm. US$35-55, breakfast included.  
  • Trung Nam Hai Hotel (Trung Nam Hai Hotel), No 27 Hoan Kiem, Hoan Kiem (Nearby Hoan Kiem Lake), +84 4 3928 8228 (, fax: +84 4 3928 8268). In Old Quarter, all bedrooms have en-suite bathroom with bathtub and shower, air-conditioning and heating, mini bar, free WiFi, safe deposit box, flat screen TV with cable television, hairdryer. All floors can be reached by an elevator. US$30-50, breakfast included.  
  • Viet Anh Hotel, 11 Ma May St, +84 4 926 1302 (fax: +84 4 926 1306). Newly remodeled rooms, located on a shady street in the Old Quarter. Internet and a good buffet breakfast (with chef on hand) are included in the room rate. US$15-60.  edit
  • Hanoi Hibiscus Hotel, 52 Ngo Huyen Str, Hoan Kiem Dist, +84 4 3938 2113 (, fax: +84 4 3938 2115). Centrally located in the charming historic Old Quarter, 3 minutes' walk from Hoan Kiem Lake. 3-stars. 15 minutes walk from Dong Xuan Market and Hanoi Opera House. Free WiFi and flat screen TV. Ensuite all rooms, breakfast included and travel services available. US$30-35.   

Splurge

  • Daewoo Hanoi Hotel, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh District (15-20 min by taxi from the centre of town). 5 star hotel, but 4 stars by international standards. Part of a larger apartment and business complex that includes 7 restaurants and cafes, 2 banks, and a dance club. There is a large pool, exercise room, business centre with translation services, and free internet in the rooms. US$170+.   
  • InterContinental Hanoi Westlake, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District (on the waters of Westlake, adjacent to the 800 year-old Golden Lotus Pagoda), +84 4 6270 8888, . 5 star hotel of 359 rooms and suites with private balconies.  
  • Melia Hanoi Hotel, Ly Thuong Kiet St (within walking distance of Hanoi Towers and Hoa Lu prison, and is about 15 min slow walk from the Old Quarter). Rooms are big and offer views of the city. US$139+, breakfast included.   
  • Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi, 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem District (in walking distance to Hoan Kiem Lake and Old Quarter), +84 4 3822 2800 (, fax: +84 4 3822 2776). checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. 154 rooms and suites, 93 of which are non-smoking rooms, and 20 connecting rooms. All rooms are equipped with LCD flat screen, wide selection of international cableTV channels. Mini-bar, IDD telephone, personal safe, tea and coffee making are also available. Broadband cable and WiFi is accessible in all rooms and throughout the public areas of the hotel. US$140+
  • Sheraton Hanoi Hotel, K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu Rd, Tay Ho District (On the shore of West lake). Large gardens and courtyards. Rooms are furnished with traditional decor and modern amenities.   
  • Sofitel Metropole Hanoi Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen St (Within walking distance of the Hanoi Opera House). French Colonial style hotel patroned by mostly older European travellers. The cuisine served by the restaurant is tasty and fresh. 
  • Sofitel Plaza Hotel, 1 Thanh Nien Rd, Ba Dinh Distric. 317 rooms. Renowned as the most scenic hotel in Hanoi with a zig-zag facade and stepped architecture. Hotel is spotless and well maintained with very friendly staff.  
  • Hanoi Viet Hotel, 61 Hang Than St, Hoan Kiem District, +84 4 3927 4705 (fax: +84 4 3927 4707). checkin: 12:30PM; checkout: 11:30AM. 3 star hotel in Hanoi. 38 rooms and suites with private balconies. US$45.  
  • Somerset Grand Hanoi, No 49 Hai Ba Trung Street, +84 4 3934-2342 (, fax: +84 4 3934-2343). The residence offers 185 apartments that range from one to three-bedroom layouts, as well as the three-bedroom penthouse. Each apartment has a kitchens, IDD telephone with a private number and furnishings are provided. Daily rates starts from 2625000 VND.

Stay safe

Like everywhere else in Vietnam, traffic in Hanoi is dominated by an incredible number of motorbikes, all of which seem to be making a mad, desperate dash for something just out of reach — all of the time. All the while blowing their horns incessantly. In other words, pedestrian traffic can be overwhelming for visitors, especially in the narrow streets around the Old Quarter. When you leave the curb, look not only both ways but left, right, back and front, and take each step slowly and patiently allowing them to pass because even an eye contact is not enough with the oncoming drivers and actually before you know it, someone is also on your back since there is no such thing as one-directional traffic in Vietnam. The key word here is slowly — don't rush. This way the drivers are aware of you, and can take you into account (along with all of the other motorbikes). It may look, and indeed is somewhat chaotic, but be patient and pay attention when you're crossing any street, large or small, and you should be fine. Definitely, the streets of Hanoi has no place for faint hearted people, with hypertension and heart problems on top of the disabled and the old.
You should look everywhere as you proceed. Holding out your arm toward the stream of vehicles as a "slow down, I am crossing" sign may be a good idea but not acknowledged most of the time. Don't stop suddenly when you see one coming a little fast or rush your steps when you are crossing. Just even your pace and walk slowly. The motorbikes will find their way to avoid you themselves.
Be vigilant when taking a taxi - driver jumps out at destination and dumps most of your bags out of the trunk. While you're busy putting rucksack on he has taken off with your other bags. Ask your hotel which taxi companies are reliable - stories abound of meters that run at an adjusted (much faster) rate.
Also keep all eyes on your belongings, especially in crowded area like Dong Xuan night market, or just don't go at all if it's not worth the risk; expect female pickpockets and don't let them surround you.
Also, be careful around the streets of Hilton prison museum, a lady will approach you and insist on introducing herself with her pick-up line "Hello, I'm a student." (Who cares?)
Be careful of hustler hawkers. Anywhere else in Vietnam, they have a two-tier pricing system - for locals and for foreigners. No other place in Vietnam is this experienced more emphatically than in Hanoi (and also in Ho Chi Minh Ben Tanh Market) where vendors charge you differently according to how you make an impression. Hawkers may charge 3x more their going rate for an item even if your appearance is similar to them simply because you are not a Viet Kiew, you don't speak the language, and you are sporting an expensive-looking wristwatch. They think you deserve this treatment even if you are eating the humblest food.
As in any Southeast Asian city, Hanoi is hygienically challenged especially where locals congregate more to dine. Expect that there may be a non-existing Health Department, or this is not in the priority of the city government.

Contact

Telephone

  • Hanoi code: 4. Note the recently added '3' in front of all local numbers. Example:
  • Old dialling style: 1234567 (from within the city) or 04 1234567 (inter-provincial) or +84 4 123456 (from overseas)
  • New dialling style: 3 1234567 (from within the city) or 04 3 1234567 (inter-provincial) or +84 4 3 123456 (from overseas)

 Internet

There are plenty of internet cafés all over the city. Most are used by Vietnamese teens playing online dance or battle games. Rates vary, but can be as low as 3,000 dong/hr. Some of the better cafés, particularly in the Old Quarter, have computers that are Skype-capable for international phone calls. Close to Hanoi Youth Hostel there is a cybercafe that charge tourist ten times the actual cost. It is next door, and has no name. If you are in a hurry use another one.
The cafes that charge you for using the Internet usually provide desktop computers. There are also cafes where they have free wireless. All you have to do is order something from their menus and use their wifi for as long as you want. The wifi cafes are usually concentrated around Hoan Kiem lake area.

Monks crossing the street

Cope

Beware a pair of women near the Hanoi Towers/lake area who claim to be part of the "Red Cross". They will try to sell you toothpicks for blind and disabled people, and this is most likely a scam.

Embassies & consulates

  • Ar-flag.png Argentina, 4F, Sentinel Pl, 41A Ly Thai To St, +84 4 3831-5262.
  • As-flag.png Australia, 8 Dao Tan St, +84 4 3774-0100.
  • Ca-flag.png Canada.
  • Ch-flag.png China, 46 Hoang Dieu Rd, +84 4 38453736.
  • Ez-flag.png Czech Republic, 13 Chu Van An St, +84 4 3845-4131(-2).
  • Da-flag.png Denmark, 19 Dien Bien Phu St, +84 4 3823-1888.
  • Fr-flag.png France, 57 Tran Hung Dao St, +84 4 3944-5700.
  • Gm-flag.png Germany.
  • Gr-flag.png Greece, 28 Thanh Nien Rd, Tay Ho District, +84 4 3715 2254, +84 4 3715 2263.
  • In-flag.png India, 58-60, Tran Hung Dao, +84 4 253409 (+84 4 252310).
  • Id-flag.png Indonesia, 50 Ngo Quyen St, +84 4 825 3353 (+84 4 8257969).
  • It-flag.png Italy, 9 Le Phung Hieu, +84 4 3825-6256.
  • Ja-flag.png Japan, 27 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh District, +84 4 3846 3000.
  • My-flag.pngMalaysia, 43-45 Dien Bien Phu, +84 4 3734 3849.
  • Nl-flag.png Netherlands, 6F, Daeha Office Tower, 360 Kim Ma St, +84 4 3831-5650.
  • No-flag.png Norway, 10F, Vincom City Towers, 191 Ba Trieu St, +84 4 3974-8900.
  • Pk-flag.png Pakistan, Villa 44/2, Van Bao Street, Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 04-37562251 (, fax: 04-37562253). M-F 0900-1700.
  • Pl-flag.png Poland.
  • Ru-flag.png Russia, 191 La Thanh St, +84 4 833 6991/2 (consular department +84 4 833-6575).
  • Sn-flag.png Singapore, 41-43 Tran Phu St, +84 4 3848-9168.
  • Sw-flag.png Sweden.
  • Sz-flag.png Switzerland, 15F Hanoi Central Office Bldg, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, +84 4 3934-6589.
  • Tw-flag.PNG Taiwan.


  • Kr-flag.png Ukraine, 6 Le Hong Phong St., Ba Dinh Dist., +84 4 3734 4484 (, fax: +84 4 3734 4497).
  • Uk-flag.png United Kingdom, Central Bldg, 31 Hai Ba Trung, +84 4 936 0550
  • Us-flag.png United States, 170 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh.

Immigration office

  • Immigration department, 40A Hang Bai, Hanoi, 8266200. for visa extensions and others 

Get out

If you are the adventurous type or simply bored temporarily of the city atmosphere, then consider a cruise in the northern countryside. A round trip will bring you to a lot of charming villages and through hills and valleys with stunning nature. Main roads are generally in good condition and you can easily do a couple of hundred kilometers a day. The villages and provinces are generally safe at night, and you get to see a lot of Vietnamese culture such as various tribe folks. While bus services are in fact available (albeit not always reliable), a recommended alternative is to rent a bike or car and make the trip on your own. Motorbikes in decent quality can be rented for as little as US$5 a day, and many places have suggestions for routes.
  • Ha Long Bay's spectacular ocean karst topography is the most popular side-trip from Hanoi.
  • The Sapa mountain region, home to ethnic minorities, gorgeous mountain scenery, and trekking paths connecting many tiny mountain villages is the second most popular trip. It is accessible by bus or train to Lao Cai, then onward by minibus or hired motorbike.

Interior of the Perfume Pagoda cave
  • Perfume Pagoda, (Not reasonably reachable by public transport. Tours are available anywhere in Hanoi.). An ancient Buddhist pilgrimage site about 60 km southwest of Hanoi. A full-day excursion that involves a boat trip to the main site, where you will hike (30-45 min) or take a cable car up a mountain. Near the top is a large limestone cave containing Buddhist shrines and statues. There are various other temples and grottoes along the way. Tour from US$15 including transport, lunch, and admission
  • Bat Trang, a village world-famous for its pottery, 9 km southeast of Hanoi. It is accessible by taking Bus 47, which originates at Long Bien. Just hop on (the bus will be clearly labelled with the number 47 and the text "Long Bien - Bat Trang"; bus fare is 3,000 dong one-way as of 2008) and take it to the last stop, which is directly opposite the pottery market (haggle for lower prices, and insist on paying in Dong). Head back up the street to the factories to see artists at work.
  • Cao Bang, featuring the beautiful Ban Gioc waterfall, is five hours away by bus, near the Chinese border.
  • Co Loa is the oldest ancient capital in the region; a little visited site slightly northeast of Hanoi.
  • Tam Coc/Hoa Lu: Located in Ninh Binh province, this day trip is a combines heritage tourism and natural landscape tourism. Hoa Lu is the site of the first capital of Vietnam in the 10th century, and was home to two kings-- Dinh Bo Linh (Dinh Tien Hoang) and Le Hoan-- there are now two shrines dedicated to these two kings. About 30 min away from Hoa Lu is Tam Coc [three grottoes]-- also known as Halong Bay on land. It features karst landforms surrounded by paddy fields, and is accessed by little wooden boats. Boats are for hire at US$3.50/trip, which takes about one hour. This is an excellent alternative to Halong Bay for those who have short attention spans, as the boat trip takes a mere hour versus Halong Bay tourist boats which take 5 hours. One minor annoyance involves pedlars on boats hawking their wares, and your boat rower trying to sell you embroidery. Trip can be booked in Hanoi for about US$20.